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(r) Pleasure Palace

Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

A handful of good sport climbs are to be found in the Pleasure Palace. It's in the shade in the morning and stays cool on hot days. Bop Till you Drop is the primo route but the others are also worth climbing.

Getting There

The crag is located on the West side of Misery Ridge above Mesa Verde wall. To reach the crag hike past the Red Wall up Misery Ridge towards Monkey Face. Look for a trail down of the mesa before you reach the cliffs in front of Monkey Face. The trail passing right through the climbs.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 61
Aggro Bumbly
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Sea of Green
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 70
Matthew 7:24
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 54
Xanadu
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 51
Bop Till You Drop
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Little Wicked Thing
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 65
We Be Toys
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
Red Scare
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 91
Watermark
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Aggro Bumbly
 61
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sea of Green
 45
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Matthew 7:24
 70
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Xanadu
 54
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bop Till You Drop
 51
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Little Wicked Thing
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
We Be Toys
 65
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Red Scare
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Watermark
 91
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bop Till You Drop route
[Hide Photo] Bop Till You Drop route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] decent place to hang when mesa verde wall is crowded. Bop till you drop is a fun short ride, good warmup on a chilly morning. Dec 14, 2014
Serge S
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] The first (left) 4-5 routes can be easily top-roped (anchors are on the mesa). Sep 5, 2016