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The Grotto
New Mexico
> Santa Fe Area
> Diablo Canyon
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
The Grotto is the premium area to climb in Diablo Canyon. It is a slot canyon trimmed out of the upper portion of the south wall. It is filled with large boulders interlaced with fairly lush (for NM) vegetation. While it runs NE to SW the north facing wall is much higher, keeping The Grotto shady for most of the day. The sun peeks through both ends of the canyon during the early morning and late afternoon respectively. However, during January, February, and March an unseasonably warm day is necessary for comfortable climbing.
Climbs in The Grotto range from 5.8 to 5.14a. The rock ranges from good to great with everything from long and steep to short and slabby. Lots of flat boulders provide spots to lounge, lunch, or both while keeping an eye on fellow climbers.
(Text written by Rick Bradshaw)
Getting There
Follow the new trail (fall 2012) to Runway (Lower Tier). From Runway (Lower Tier), hike easy terrain west to the Grotto. The new trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.
Alternatively, you can take the old, long-used but steeper, nastier, approach to the Grotto. For this, stay in the main arroyo past Winter Wall and past the Solar Cave and look for a decent trail in the dirt embankment on the left. Take this trail and wind your way up through talus and screen to the top.
[Hide Photo] Cairns mark the entrance to the trail to Early Wall and the Grotto.
[Hide Photo] Trail to Early Wall and the Grotto. Trail meets the wall at the leftmost side of Runway. Turn left to access the Left End Wall. Turn right to access Runway and the Grotto.
[Hide Comment] found a small set of cams at the grotto left end! Right at the belay ledge, a few camalots, c3's, and an alien or two. Exciting to find but I know i'd be pissed if I forgot this stuff. Lemme know, mlopez364@gmail.com good luck!
Aug 21, 2012
[Hide Comment] What do people think about simplifying this area and re-organizing it into only 2 sub areas, Grotto Left (East) Side and Grotto Right (West) Side? This would make finding individual climbs much easier and simplify things.
Oct 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] I like the idea of a reorganization of the areas to make it more clear. The organization of the Grotto here has always confused me and even after many years of climbing there, I'm still confused by it. :-) Grotto Left (East) and Grotto Right (West) would be clean. Any thoughts on sub-areas in within these two areas or is that too much and not really needed?
Oct 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] I think as George mentions keeping the upper tier climbs separate is a good idea. Otherwise I don't like having too many sub areas as it leads to clicking back and forth a lot to see all the climbs.
Oct 14, 2014
[Hide Comment] Hi all. Posting on behalf of my friend Ricci Rossi (doesn't have an MP account). He left his pair of La Sportiva Katanas in the Grotto on 4/11/24, likely at the base of Book of Souls or on the boulders near Trailer Park Girls. They are size 42 and his name is written inside of the shoe. If you find them, please coordinate with him to get them back to him. His phone number is 603-631-6810. Responds to texts or calls. Thanks for checking!
7 days ago
Santa fe, NM
good luck! Aug 21, 2012
Denver, CO
Los Alamos, NM
Grotto Left (East) and Grotto Right (West) would be clean. Any thoughts on sub-areas in within these two areas or is that too much and not really needed? Oct 13, 2014
Denver, CO
Denver, CO
Tucson, AZ