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Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress

Fool's Rush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Illegitimate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Looking Backward T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden Heaven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maiden Voyage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Nut Willie T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stinger T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm Fuzzies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
White Maiden's Walkaway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Z Crack, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Zeno's Paradox T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zuma T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 33.76, -116.684 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 27,358 total, 190/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Maiden Buttress forms the left skyline, as seen from Lunch Rock. The longer routes finish on the gentle shoulder to the southwest of the summit. From here, the easiest way down is to scramble up to the summit, then (Class 2/3) southeast to the saddle, and then take the trail clockwise all the way around the rock. A quicker and shorter way is to descend the Friction Route. This starts just east of a large boulder at the upper end of the saddle, and goes down troughs and ledges until it reaches the ground. It’s easy once you know the way, but be careful if you haven’t done it before – some people have gotten off route and taken bad falls.

Getting There

Scramble left from Lunch Rock to get to the base.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at (e) Maiden Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Maiden's Walkaway
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fool's Rush
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Illegitimate
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zeno's Paradox
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Maiden's Walkaway 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 6 pitches
Fool's Rush 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
The Illegitimate 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Zeno's Paradox 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in (e) Maiden Buttress »

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Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Roger Linfield is correct about the bad falls. Joe Fitchen took a monster fall down the south face of Lily Rock (Tahquitz) in the 1950's. Ellen Wilts talks about witnessing that famous fall, in an interview, on a video at the Idyllwild History Museum. Sep 30, 2012

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