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Routes in (b) North Face

Coup de Grace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Dorado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Grandote T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Monte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
El Whampo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elegant Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grace Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Lark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Farce T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Partners in Crime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Biased T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Lark T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Description

This is the lowest angle face of Tahquitz Rock. It offers a mix of routes up to about six pitches in length. There are easy routes that follow long crack systems, and are mostly quite well protected. Some newer routes follow the slabs between crack systems. The rock on the lower part of this face is fairly good, but the upper part is rather loose. ItÂ’s best to avoid climbing below another party on this face. The longer routes finish on the Northeast shoulder of the rock. Climb up from there on third class rock until you reach hiking terrain at a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, the shortest way back to the base of the face is the North Gully (3rd class). You can also take the trail from the saddle, going clockwise to Lunch Rock, and then continuing along the base of the rock to the North Face.

During the summer, this face gets sun much of the day. In the Spring and Summer, it gets a lot of shade.

Getting There

Take the North Face trail to the base, or take the main trail to Lunch Rock and traverse left along the base of the rock.

16 Total Climbs

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Location: (b) North Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at (b) North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
East Lark
Trad 6 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Lark
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Whampo
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face West
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard Lark
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Face East
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Grandote
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coup de Grace
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elegant Arch
Trad 11 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Lark 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 6 pitches
West Lark 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 5 pitches
El Whampo 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Northeast Face West 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Hard Lark 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Northeast Face East 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
El Grandote 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Coup de Grace 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Elegant Arch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 11 pitches
More Classic Climbs in (b) North Face »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
The boulder in question is gone, probably what got that guy in September :( Nov 10, 2017
Chris, I'm going up to check on it tomorrow afternoon. Sep 7, 2017
David Vogel
Lake Forest, CA
David Vogel   Lake Forest, CA
Here is a URL link to see two pictures that Sarah Barron posted (Thanks Sarah). See Link then Scroll down to bottom of page to view.
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Sep 7, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Someone should confirm that this boulder is still there or has gone - see here Sep 7, 2017
Can't see the pics. How big is it? We don't really trundle up here. Do you think it's going to stay where it is or is easily pulled down? Aug 25, 2017
There is a huge, loose boulder at the top of the exit gully for the Larks, at the western end of the North Face. I've attached 3 photos showing the boulder. This boulder is a feature that anyone exiting this gully will pull on for their exit. When we were climbing on Tuesday (8/22), the boulder rolled forward/down hill when weighted. The first 2 photos are taken from below, looking up at the rock. The 2nd photo is taken from above. Note the new separation of the dirt, at the base. That happened when we pulled on it. You can now see to the bottom of the route through that hole. In the photos, the 9.8 mm rope can be used for sizing perspective.
I've notified Nomad (Idyllwild), forestry & Mountain Project. Please share this post with anyone you think might be in that area. I'll update this post once I have confirmation that the boulder has been (safely!)
trundled.


Aug 25, 2017

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