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Potrero John Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Potrero John

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alien Ant Farm V1 5
	Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Cleaning Lady S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Menage a Trois S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Miccis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Potrero Traverse V2 5+
	Should I Go (aka El Potrero) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Should I Stay S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Spinal Tap S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wild Rose T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unsorted Routes:

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Elevation:	3,600 ft
GPS:	34.5825, -119.26159 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	25,419 total · 115/month
Shared By:	Mike Morley on Feb 13, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure Details

Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.

Description

A quarter mile further up the road from Black Wall lies this cliff sporting a handful of quality sport routes.

Historical Background

Information care of the late Reese Martin: "In 1995 Potero John Wall was retro-bolted with fat 3/8" bolts and additional anchors were added. This turned what had been a collection of runout 1/4" spinner horror-shows, into a friendly and fun place for the moderate climber. All five bolted routes are worthwhile. When you climb the insecure, tricky seam in the middle of the face, Menage a Trois, 5.10b, remember the route was first climbed in EBs and protected only by wired stoppers in 1976 by "Hot" Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard. The bolts appeared recently. After your day of climbing be sure to check out the numerous swimming holes nearby. There is a great barefoot boulder traverse over the big pool 200 yards upstream. Fall off and you're wet."

Getting There

1/4 mile up the road from Sespe's main "Black Wall". Park in a dirt turnout and walk down the hillside, across Sespe Creek. Approach time: 5 minutes.

Topo

From Tradgirl.com (c)Reese Martin 1997

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Potrero John

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V2 5+ 7 ● Potrero Traverse Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 19 ● Beginnings Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 12 ● Wild Rose Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 36 ● Miccis Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 45 ● Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 29 ● Menage a Trois Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 29 ● Should I Go (aka El Potrero) Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 24 ● Cleaning Lady Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Spinal Tap Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 22 ● Should I Stay Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 22 ● Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) Sport