PRINT: Rock Climbing in Sleeping Beauty Wall, Enchanted Tower

Sleeping Beauty Wall

New Mexico > Enchanted Tower

Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.

Description

Sleeping Beauty Wall is found just up and left of the Enchanted Tower in a sort of squared-out rectangular alcove. The middle section of the wall is overhanging. A pretty good range of routes are located here, from 5.9 to hard 5.11 and from complete jugs like those on Cheshire Cat to tiny crimps on Glass Coffin and Poison Apple. This seems to be a pretty popular area, so likely that you'll have company during the "season".

Getting There

You can hike up to the Sleeping Beauty Wall from either side via trails along the slopes below the wall.

Routes

Right To Left:

Cheshire Cat - 5.10b
Tarred and Feathered - 5.10c/d
Sleeping Beauty - 5.11c
Glass Coffin - 5.11b
Poison Apple - 5.11a/b
Prince Valiant - 5.9
Life O' Riley - 5.9
The Burly Wench - 5.10+
Witch's Promise - 5.11b

Routes from Left to Right

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 4 ● Sea Hag Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 15 ● Witch's Promise Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 9 ● The Burly Wench Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 39 ● Life O' Riley Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 46 ● Prince Valiant Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 6 ● Heather Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 49 ● Poison Apple Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 60 ● Glass Coffin Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 93 ● Sleeping Beauty Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 88 ● Tarred and Feathered Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 112 ● Cheshire Cat Sport

● Sea Hag

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● Witch's Promise

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● The Burly Wench

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

● Life O' Riley

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport

● Prince Valiant

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport

● Heather

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Poison Apple

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Glass Coffin

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Sleeping Beauty

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● Tarred and Feathered

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

● Cheshire Cat

112

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Perfect two and three-finger pocket pulling. September 2017.