PRINT: Rock Climbing in Spiderman Buttress, Smith Rock

(p) Spiderman Buttress

Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Spiderman buttress is home to many classic moderate climbs. As one of the most popular "backside" areas there is often a wait for the most popular routes here (spiderman). Climbs here have a spectacular backdrop of cascade peaks.

Getting There

Head down the main trail, cross the river, and go past the dihedrals and main area. Take the trail up to asterik pass and scramble over the top. Head right (north) along climber's trails and follow signs to the west facing buttress.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 16 ● Stiff Little Fingers Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 2 ● Captain Fingers Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 1 ● Necromancer Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 4 ● Cornerstone Variation Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 8 ● Harmer Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 51 ● In Harm's Way Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 127 ● Out of Harm's Way Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 21 ● Explosive Energy Child Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 4 ● Best Left to Obscurity Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 96 ● Squashed Spider Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 3 ● Widow Maker Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 62 ● Spiderman Variation Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 472 ● Spiderman Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 88 ● First Ascent Crack Trad

● Stiff Little Fingers

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

● Captain Fingers

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Necromancer

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad

● Cornerstone Variation

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Harmer

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

● In Harm's Way

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches

● Out of Harm's Way

127

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport

● Explosive Energy Child

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad

● Best Left to Obscurity

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad

● Squashed Spider

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

● Widow Maker

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches

● Spiderman Variation

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

● Spiderman

472

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches

● First Ascent Crack

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad

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Spiderman Buttress

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Tyler Swanson
Bend, OR

Spiderman Buttress was completely re-bolted by the High Desert Climbers Alliance in February and March of 2024. With the exception of a few obscure bolts, everything was upgraded to stainless steel glue-ins and all anchor stations were updated to modern standards. Any anchor station intended to be lowered from was equipped with mussy hooks and any mid-route anchors were set up with rappel hardware. Enjoy! Mar 26, 2024