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Condor Buttress Rock Climbing
Routes in Condor Buttress
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Condorification S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Condorphamine Addiction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Opus of the Condorian Kind S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Solitary Man S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tails, You Lose! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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| Elevation: | 3,495 ft | 1,065 m |
| GPS: |
47.57284, -120.77702 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 35,972 total · 157/month | |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Feb 1, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Condor Buttress is situated high on the north side of Icicle Creek Canyon. It is notable for the long multipitch sport climb Condorphamie Addiction, a route which seems to generate a lot of opinions. There are a few other lines on this formation, and a handful on relatively nearby crags such as Area 51, Non-Wall, and Bathtub dome.
Getting There
Condor Buttress, Bathtub Dome, Area 51, and nearby crags are located approximately 8.8 miles up Icicle Creek road (from the intersection with Highway 2). Look for a pull-out on the south side of the road. The approach trail starts on the north side 15-30 ft east of the parking. As with many crags in Icicle, finding the trailhead is often the first crux of the day. Condor Buttress is reached after about 1 hour of intense hiking on sloped gravelly rock and loose dirt along an indistinct trail. See directions for bathtub dome for more details.
Classic Climbing Routes at Condor Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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