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Routes in Lower Gibraltar

Chimney Sweep T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Conundrum T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Left of Rapture S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Annie T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapture, The S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Warrior Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

The poorly named lower Gibraltar is actually up the road from the main wall. A little cliff with four moderate routes. South facing and secluded, a good place to go if Gibraltar is crowded and you have gumbies with you. There are two sets of anchors at the top and it is far easier to rappel to the bottom of the face.

It is a particularily nice area for gumbies because they get to do a rappel and then three or four climbs that are quite different from each other.

Getting There

Drive 50 yards past the main Gibraltar area and park in a turnout on the downhill side of the road. Scramble out to the point and then right (200 yards) to the top of the climbs. The approach should take less than 2 minutes.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Gibraltar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
Lieback Annie
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
The Rapture
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Left of Rapture
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lieback Annie
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Rapture
 33
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Left of Rapture
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
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M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Note that the base of Lower Gibraltar is quite cramped, and 3 of the 4 routes start within just a few feet of one another. This area cannot really accommodate more than a few people at a time, and for that reason is not an ideal spot for groups. Mar 2, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Respectfully, I don't think this is a good spot for "gumbies" unless you are super proficient with traditional topropes (belayer above climber) and hauling systems.

Conundrum and the Rapture are both very sustained routes. Some beginners will really struggle on these two routes.

One way to make this work is to hang a draw on each bolt of the Rapture to give beginners something positive to pull on. The Rapture requires the use of 2 to 3 directionals anyway. Mar 31, 2006
Just climbed here this weekend. Found out that the route was called rapture after climbing there and ironically it was May 21.

All these routes are very fun and a great spot for beginning leaders. However, safety is critical on this rock due to the exposure at the base and although there is room for a few people, I cannot imagine being on the ledge with more than my partner. May 24, 2011
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Lower Gibraltar indeed lower than Gibraltar Rock, not poorly named. even tho you have to continue uphill on the road past roadside Gibraltar Rock to the Lower Gibraltar pullout, the little trail from there down thru the manzanitas does descend far enough to Lower Gibraltar that, by then, you would be lower than Gibraltar Rock Jul 4, 2016

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