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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

The Red Wall has some of Smith's best multipitch moderates as well as a few classic tuft crimpfests. It is east facing and gets morning sun. The rock quality is generally good for Smith.

Getting There

To approach cross the bridge and follow the trail up and right (north) until you get to the reddish colored rock. Allow 30 minutes from the car.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at (u) Red Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
The Red Wall is a great summer crag with a quick approach, great rock and position, and shade from early afternoon on.

Rappel beta for any routes topping out the left side of the wall (Titanium Jag, Orgasmagoria, Bay of Pigs, Stroke of Brilliance, Super Slab, Panama Red, Amphetamine Grip):

Walk to the right side of the ledge on top of the wall to rappel anchors next to a cave with a cairn at head height.

2 x 70m ropes: Rap straight the way to the ground. Be sure to get away from the wall at the bottom and do a good hard pull.

2 x 60m ropes: Rap 2 ropes to the big ledge atop Super Slab's first pitch. There are a few different sets of rap rings, rappel one rope to the ground on either one.

1 x 70m rope: Make a short 30' rap and swing right to another anchor at a stance(P2 anchor for Dirty Pinkos) Two more raps to the ground.

1 x 60m rope: Maybe possible same as for 70m with a short easy-ish downclimb above the big ledge. Aug 11, 2017
Would totally recommend wearing a helmet in this area. Or always when standing under a route. In 2 days I saw 2 separate rock fall incidents last weekene, 1 of which would have absolutely killed a woman and an man with his dog if not for missing by a few feet. All melon sized rock. May 30, 2014

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