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Routes in Columns (aka Skinner Butte)

3rd Column Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
4th Column Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
4th Column Jam T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
5th Column (aka Sign Face) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack a No Go T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hard Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Ski Track T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Limp Dick T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Main Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Ski Track T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Satisfaction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Second Column Left Jam TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sign Crack (4th Column Jam Left?) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Transportation Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 445 ft
GPS: 44.058, -123.097 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,561 total · 149/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006 with updates from Dylan Colon
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This popular wall is located in the heart of Eugene minutes from the local climbing gym, the Nike shop, and downtown pubs and restuarants. Despite its small size it has a great concentration of cracks. The basalt columns are all trad and TR lines that have many nice bolted anchors at top.

The Columns get afternoon to evening sun and can be crowded with the afterwork crowds. It is a great place to practice crack technique and leading. The routes range from 5.6 to 5.11 but the locals will tell you about the "off" holds to make the climbs more challenging.

While the rock here is generally solid occasionally a piece will break off. A few years back the large block came off the top. As a result the right half of the crag has detestable chainlink fence over it. Luckily the best climbs remain open.

Getting There

Located in Downtown Eugene at 2nd and Lincoln. The approach is 30sec from your car.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Columns (aka Skinner Butte)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Main Chimney
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
3rd Column Jam
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Fat Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Bat Crack
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 9
4th Column Jam
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Hard Lieback
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Left Ski Track
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Limp Dick
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Satisfaction
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Main Chimney
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
3rd Column Jam
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Fat Crack
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Bat Crack
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
4th Column Jam
 9
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Hard Lieback
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Left Ski Track
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Limp Dick
 12
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Satisfaction
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Columns (aka Skinner Butte) »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
rl23455
Portland, OR
rl23455   Portland, OR
Most people know this place as Skinner Butte. Aug 3, 2009
1) There are plenty (probably too many) bolted anchors up top, and although access can be mildly sketchy it looks like all routes at the Columns can be top-roped.

2) There is an obvious sign at the parking area listing 30+ routes overlaid on a photo, with grades listed as well. Excellent resource. Sep 14, 2011
JoeR
Eugene, OR
JoeR   Eugene, OR
1. All routes can be top-roped

2. Skinner's Butte is a Eugene city park, so alcohol is prohibited. Bike cops cruise by all the time during the summer and will hassle you and everyone else if they see any booze. Also, off leash dogs and out of control dogs are prohibited. Hours are 6am-11pm all year.

3. Routes are really close together. Most follow each crack individually, hands and feet staying in the crack. There are tons of variations and lines contrived for easier and harder climbs.

4. Most of the routes take great protection, just keep in mind that this is an old rock quarry and the rock can be suspect. More than one of the trade routes has changed drastically over the years, just look to the piles of rubble scattered around if you have any doubts about this.

5. Extending your anchor out past the edge is a great idea given the rope eating nature of these cracks. The middle buttress anchors are set well back from the edge.

6. Though the scene here is pretty honest, unattended gear looks like christmas to some of the local bums. I've never had anything stolen, but I've been cased a few times. Just keep a heads up. Jan 22, 2012
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Coming from a mostly Rocky Mountain granite background, should I be stocking up on tape if this place becomes my after-work crag, or is the rock friendly enough to go without? Apr 9, 2012
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
If your coming from climbing at the Voo or the South Platte, this rock is smooth and comfortable to jam. No tape needed. Apr 9, 2012
JoeR
Eugene, OR
JoeR   Eugene, OR
Recently a contractor hired by the city to clean up some big rocks that had fallen decided for some reason to excavate under Outer Column. He had not been instructed to do this by the City of Eugene. Contractor reported that the Outer Column shifted about 2ft. Skinner's Butte is now closed from Left Ski Track over, pending an inspection and/or indefinitely. For more information you can contact the River House @ 541-682-5329 May 16, 2012
rogw  
Great climbing for the whole family. There were some very hard stuff for my adult kids, my young kids there were easy things to do. Small parking area, and plenty to do for all ranges of ability. Great times.

It was nice, we set up the rope and it covered routes 3, 4, 5 which were a 5.6+, 5.8 and 5.9 - all within decent reach of one rope. If I would have had more ropes, we could have set up all those routes individually. Easy access to the top. Oct 24, 2016
The sign said that “it could be more than 2 months”. Knowing how most projects go, there’s a good chance it will be significantly longer. Nov 24, 2017
Evon Calabrese
Eugene, OR
Evon Calabrese   Eugene, OR
Does anyone know if The Columns have reopened? Hoping to climb there this weekend. Jan 12, 2018
Holden Marsh
Eugene, OR
Holden Marsh   Eugene, OR
For folks new to this page and the Columns, when observing from the ground, the routes are listed in reverse order, as in if you select "L>R", the routes are actually listed from Right to Left. Mar 6, 2018

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