[Hide Comment] Unless you have titanium testicles bring a stick clip. B1 is consistently well off the deck. This is an odd concept for my feeble mind to grasp. Why create a route with a serious groundfall risk on the start, then bolt the remainder into submission?

For purposes of comparison: If these routes were in AZ or CO they would usually get a full number grade less than the online guide gives for the difficulty.

Kudos to the developer(s) for the excellent lower out anchors. All sport routes would benefit from a similar setup. I'm sure the cost was not minimal.

Overall this is one of the best sport areas I've seen for both the average as well as the elite climber: Beautiful surroundings, nice approach trail, unique rock with interesting features. Clark's online guide is a gem. Well done Gary...! Jul 4, 2006

[Hide Comment] "If these routes were in AZ or CO they would usually get a full number grade less"

Apparently you've never been to Shelf Road (CO) or Jacks Canyon (AZ) :) Nov 27, 2006

[Hide Comment] Gary Clark's naclassics.com website is no more but never fear! The online content from his site moved to the LA Mountaineers website including the excellent El Rito Sport guide. lamountaineers.org/Elrito/S… Jun 25, 2007

[Hide Comment] a full number grade, come on now. I think these routes are graded pretty similar to rifle, Where in Az has steep climbing like this besides "Dry Creek"? Sep 2, 2007

[Hide Comment] How will the temps be in mid-March? Feb 18, 2009

[Hide Comment] It should be OK in March. The cliffs mostly face west so if it is cool you can just get a lazy start and climb in the afternoon. I doubt it will be too warm to climb in the sun but it can be hot in the summers forcing you to find shade after the sun comes around. I would guess 60-70 for day time highs but pretty cold in the mornings.

A word of caution, try to avoid driving in after dark on a Friday or Saturday night as the turn off onto the dirt road is a local drinking hang at these times and bad things have been know to happen. Feb 18, 2009

[Hide Comment] Lee -

Seriously? That's somewhat unnerving. Thanks for the weather beta though. Feb 23, 2009

[Hide Comment] Yeah several years ago some friends driving in after dark on a Friday night lost every window in their Tundra to a barage of rocks. I think if you are camping it's fine though as you are several miles in and the locals seem to just hang at the turn off. Feb 23, 2009

[Hide Comment] Right on, we'll take notice, thanks. Feb 24, 2009

[Hide Comment] While I don't doubt the rock throwing incident, that is by no means the norm as I've driven in many a late Friday night and have never even seen a party.

A full number grade? Seriously. Often, the ratings seem off by a letter, but never more.

If the ratings are so soft, why the stick clip? In all seriousness though, it is certainly not necessary to have a stick clip for an enjoyable visit. Mar 4, 2009

[Hide Comment] Nice area and well worth a visit. The routes were fun and graded close enough to true for me. Very user friendly. The rock reminded me of a couple cobblestone areas in Spain. Nov 11, 2009

[Hide Comment] had a fun trip there, felt the ratings were soft, and never felt the need for a stick clip Jun 18, 2010

[Hide Comment] first of all, the routes here are no more soft or hard than anywhere else in the states. Ive climbed at shelf, the red, ten sleep, eldo, rifle, and many other places. every area has its hard routes and its sandbags..cant we stop arguing about the grade and just have some fun? Feb 1, 2012

[Hide Comment] Spent last week here! First time! Really fun! Tons of great moderates! Recommend the Rad Wall! And Ojo Caliente hot springs rest day! (though try to go mon-thur, it's more expensive on weekends)
Great online guide! Would love more information on any further sport developments in the area. Apr 23, 2012

[Hide Comment] Just uploaded 12 new sport routes to the El Rito Sport Area. Look under El Norte for location and descriptions. Some of the routes still need more cleaning, and we will hopefully be able to get back this fall to work on the trial. Enjoy. Sep 18, 2013

[Hide Comment] Came out here last weekend. It seems that the "Cañada del Potrero" sign was gone but it's pretty obvious where you should park. The grades seemed right on and overall the rock was solid. The only issue was a few loose hangers on the anchors on the Schoolhouse Slab but we tightened them up with a Leatherman. Overall, it was nice and a relatively easy hike to get there. Oct 8, 2013

[Hide Comment] Yeah, I did not see a sign yesterday, so didn't know how to orient myself to the crags. Found bolts down by creek at south end. Dec 25, 2013

[Hide Comment] This page is kind of funny, probably the most I've seen grade argued about on this site.

I went to El Rito for the first time last week and in my opinion it felt like gym grading. So yes, a little soft for your average crag, but not too far off.

I got on a 5.10b for warm up thinking it was a 5.8 and thought it was a little stout for a 5.8 but not by much. Also sent my first two 5.12s.

Ultimately it's all very relative though, to location and individual style/preferrence of climbing.

Who cares though? this place is beautiful and fun. Shut up and climb! Jun 18, 2017

[Hide Comment] Everytime I come to El Rito I'm continually impressed by the stewardship that goes into trail maintenance and erosion control. A fantastic area with fantastic volunteers, thanks for all the hard work! Oct 26, 2020

[Hide Comment] How's the climbing here in the winter months, if at all? Oct 28, 2020

[Hide Comment] Winter climbing isn't really feasible. The road gets snowpacked and/or muddy and much of the climbing is west-facing so it's pretty frigid. With a dry, warmer winter it's possible but I don't know anyone to do it. Oct 28, 2020

[Hide Comment] Hello. Is it too hot in the summer month( July, August) ? Is there some walls in the shade or belaying area in the shade?

I saw a comment mentioning it is to cold in the winter? Is it to cold in late December and beginning of January?
Thanks Apr 3, 2022

[Hide Comment] It's not too hot in July and August, most crags face west so most climbers climb in the morning. Early afternoon sun creeps around and walls get too hot. For climbing in late December or beginning of January, as Jason said above, it's too cold. There are plenty of best-in-winter areas nearby anyway (Tres Piedras, Las Conchas, Vista Verde, some Diablo walls). Apr 3, 2022

[Hide Comment] The major wind event in December 2021 brought down a number of trees up to and in the climbing area including a tall, green tree on the right side of the Rad Wall. Sad to see the living trees getting smacked down like that and the loss of some shade up there. As of a week ago, the trees have been cleared.

Apr 8, 2022

[Hide Comment] @LL2 ^^^^

When you are using public lands it is your responsibility to know what is open, closed, or restricted. You are responsible for knowing about seasonal road closures, raptor nesting, fire restrictions, fishing/hunting licensing...the list goes on.The Forest Service has a very limited budget (particularly in NM) and they do their best. Are they perfect? No, for sure not. But you live in Santa Fe, so it is puzzling to me that you would be unaware that there was a fire up here recently. As such, a very cursory glance at the Carson NF website shows VERY clearly that the area (and the road) is closed.

They have an interactive map for the whole state that shows the closure:

fs.usda.gov/alerts/carson/a…

Plus they have a whole webpage dedicated to the closure:

fs.usda.gov/alerts/carson/a…

The second webpage includes a list of roads that are closed, a contact link for the El Rito Ranger District to get additional info, and then a second map dedicated specifically to the El Rito fire closure area:

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Ask yourself this question? Is the FS required to put up "CLOSED" signs on the entire perimeter of all of the fires in NM? That would be impossible. I don't mean to come across as harsh, but I feel like the public expects unfettered access to public lands, but doesn't want to take the responsibility to understand the rules that come with that access. Having lived in NM for many years, I would suggest that during the summer (particularly before the monsoons have come), it is always wise to check the FS website before heading out, because it can save you a lot of wasted driving and a spoiled weekend/day. Jul 18, 2022

[Hide Comment] Asking about camping in the area do we need to get passes? Or will a parks pass work for us car camping? Feb 19, 2024

[Hide Comment] Abbie,
Passes are not required for camping at El Rito. It’s all free dispersed camping… no water, no trash collection, no toilets. Feb 19, 2024

[Hide Comment] Found-- pair of small (size 36) climbing shoes by Schoolhouse. Contact me cmermier@unm.edu to claim and I'll find a way to get them to you. 3 days ago