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Routes in Oak Creek Canyon Overlook

Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Angel's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Constant Gardener T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girdle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head Cheese T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I've Always Been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Walk, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Magumba's Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sparky And The Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 35.03, -111.733 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 56,035 total, 387/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

The Overlook is a firmly established traditional crag perched high above Oak Creek Canyon just south of Flagstaff. Long broken basalt columns line the rim of this area, and the result is a plethora of moderate trad climbs. Folks began exploring these cliffs in the late 1960s but it wasn't until the middle 70s that it started to resemble the crag we know today.

And while the obvious loose blocks were trundled during the FAs, these routes were cleaned by the hands of a thousand ascents, and not by arm and hammer. Pulling on hollow blocks is the norm, though always check them first. The ledgy nature of the climbing here makes it a great place to learn how to lead trad, but not a good place to fall.

The normal procedure is to rig a separate rap line from a gear anchor or solid tree on the rim, rap in, then climb back out. However, there is a trail on top of the far east side of the wall which leads down to the base. rappelling is optional. If trees are used for an all day rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.

A standard rack of doubles from #.3 through #3.5 and a single set of wires will get you up almost everything here, though smaller and larger pieces are demanded on certain routes, and extra hand sized pieces can be nice.

The Overlook is basically a kinder, more gentle version of Paradise Forks and has a reputation for drying up quicker than the Forks during the monsoons. The wall faces south east and gets plenty of morning sun, then rolls into the shade around 2:00 in the afternoon.

ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Getting There

From Flagstaff, The Overlook can be reached by driving south on highway 89A. At the top of the canyon, just before the switchbacks begin is the Overlook itself on the east side of the hwy.

You can park in the paved lot, but if you plan on staying later than 4:30 in the afternoon, you will want to park across the Hwy, as they lock the Overlook gates at that time. It is not uncommon to hear of people getting locked in so plan accordingly.

There are restrooms and water available during hours of operation.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Oak Creek Canyon Overlook

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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
HORNETS GALORE!!! Sep 8, 2017
Dane Butler
Boulder, Colorado
Dane Butler   Boulder, Colorado
A few notes from my recent trip:
The climbing is solid but the routes are hard to distinguish and find in my opinion
You don't need to rap in and can bring dogs down the hiking trail on the east side of the formation
The traffic is currently hell around this area right now due to highway construction
There should be some fixed anchors

Also, as previously mentioned, this should be moved to Oak Creek Canyon as it is in Oak Creek Canyon and that makes more sense than being categorized under Flagstaff area May 15, 2017
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Armin- For sure the lack of anchors on top does add to over all set up of your day out, so I suppose it is 'annoying' but as you mentioned this is a local ethic and one that we still follow to this day. It is an ethic that doesn't allow over bolting or retro bolting to get out of hand (not saying it would here or anywhere but it does prevent it).

Also, it could be true that having folks above you building anchors could add to the possibility of rock fall but climbers should be aware of this and act cautiously as they should do at anytime they are at a climbing area where there are people below (all climbing areas). This is the responsibility of all climbers! Your real fear should not come from the climbers above you but rather the wondering touron that decides to start up a rock toss marathon.

Now that all being said, the best argument I could make for allowing anchors there is that it would add to the sustainability of the top soil and tree environment on top that gets completely smashed each year over and over. This is true of the Forks as well but unfortunately no one can come to a consensus of whether bolted anchors add or detracts from the area. So there is the most annoying catch. Respect local ethics but be forward thinking therefor; Do nothing. Sep 24, 2016
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
the lack of any anchors at the top of all routes is annoying beyond comprehension. Im all about respecting local ethics, but i'm sure it's a set-up for accidents caused by rockfall from people setting up topropes. I mean is it park rules against placing well-thought out anchors? Camo the anchors so the tourists can't see them. I was almost seriously injured (or worse) by gumbies last season (at home crags) in 2 separate incidents where I was almost taken out by rockfall from above. Sep 20, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Whack attack! Thats a bummer. Hopefully this doesn't become a thing...This is the second incident I have heard of this variety in the last 6 months as well as a break in at the FS parking area last fall. Hard to imagine it would be climbers but assume not. I suppose its time to baiting bags with bees. Ive been keeping my swagmatite at the base during the sess. in hopes I can throw rocks or at least climb out when the bees attack. If the site manager is there you could always report it and possibly get them interested in keeping an eye out but that place is so busy with many people only popping in and out it would still be hard to catch anyone out being lame-o. Apr 10, 2016
Kelsey Sheely
Flagstaff, AZ
Kelsey Sheely   Flagstaff, AZ
To the asshole who went through my bag to find my wallet and steal all the cash out of it: Karma is a bitch and you will get what's coming to you. You don't belong in the climbing community. Everyone else, apparently people will steal your shit if you leave it at the top, even if you have it buried in your bag. Make sure you leave any valuables in your car or keep it with you. Apr 9, 2016
Adam-phx-trad Saieed
Phoenix, AZ
Adam-phx-trad Saieed   Phoenix, AZ
it is definitely wasp season at the overlook. be very careful they are highly active right now and have nest on most routes or close to most routes at least the 3 we attempted. Obediah was climbable douglads right was not. 2 nest right at the 3/4 mark of the climb Sep 3, 2013
Ben ZH
Flagstaff AZ
Ben ZH   Flagstaff AZ
While attempting to climb orange out direct last night I was swarmed by hornets while placing a nut. Beware of that. I didn't manage to clip in and my whole set of nuts are hanging on the route (20-25 ft. up) while I took cover on a nearby jug. Aug 10, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
The restricted area is to the climber's left of Red Wagon. It's pretty obvious when you are down there as well cause the trail at the base essentially ends at the Trinities. Jun 2, 2013
Can someone confirm what the restriction means here. The text above says past the area of Red Wagon. Just that mean to the left or right of Red Wagon when looking at the cliff?

thanks,
Peter Jun 1, 2013
Good question Darren. KC....can you confirm this distinction? I've seen lots of king snakes up this high but never a coral snake. I like snakes so I have a genuine curiosity about the certainty of this claim. KC, not knowing how familiar you are with Arizona snakes, I'm not sure if this claim is reliable. Did you make the distinction Darren mentioned when you saw the snake at the Overlook? May 2, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
ya sure it wasn't a king snake?

red and yellow kills a fellow? red and black safe for Jack? May 2, 2013
Please be careful not to accidentally kick the loose rocks off when you are at the top of these climbs. There are a lot of people down below. Jun 12, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Hey ya'll just wanted to let you know I sorted the routes, so that feature should help folks new to the area if this is your only source. Oct 24, 2011
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
@Jmo-Yes, I've done George's niche-It's a great burly offwidth. My personal opinion is that it is a 5.9, but that's just me. I think I had a six on that route and walked it a bit. Or maybe two and leap frogged them. Anyway, really fun & hard route. I remember the moves off the ground being tricky, too. But pro it with a 5 and you don't need to cheat, just try it a couple times/it'll come together. Jun 6, 2011
JMo
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
anyone climbed george's niche, immediately right of duck soup? karabin fold-out shows it as 5.8, going right up the overhanging wide crack into a burly off-width. wondering if this route merits a (+)? and that's even if you cheat down low and come in from the right... curious of other's thoughts. May 16, 2011
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
Anybody know of any stories of marathon days at the overlook? In the karabin foldout, it says he's toprope-soloed 25 routes in 5 hours (if my memory serves me) - how about other records? all 80 or so routes in a day? any trip reports out there? Apr 5, 2010
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
When we were at Isaiah on Sunday, some idiot started throwing rocks off the top of the cliff. One whizzed past my climber as he was lowering off, and another landed right at the base of the Trinity Cracks. I'm really glad my father and daughter had already hiked back up to the top. I'd highly recommend wearing a helmet at all times. Jul 6, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
The locals are smart enough to avoid this place on summer mornings, but if you're road tripping and brave it anyway, bring twice as much water as you think you might need. The amount of heat generated by the dark rock is hard to exaggerate.

Last Saturday I drank twice as much as I would have on Mt Lemmon in similar conditions. Jun 25, 2008
Ladd    
I didn't hurt them, no fear. Aug 22, 2007
Ladd    
I have only climbed here one day, however, on that day I had three separate encounters with tarantulas on three different routes, each time I was on lead. Creeps me out, give me NH black flies or WV snakes anyday. May 1, 2007

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