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Green Valley Gap

Utah > Saint George

Description

A west/east trending kind of tight canyon. Typical sandstone routes, just short. It can be cool in the winter, but my guess is hot in the summer. Most routes are on the north face.

Getting There

Take Sunset Blvd west of the airport mesa to Dixie Drive Road and turn left (south). Continue until you reach Canyon View Rd (N37.0955 W113.6179), and turn right (west). Continue until the pavement ends (N37.0919 W113.6277). Continue as far as your car will allow aiming for the narrow canyon (N37.0903 W113.6303) almost directly west of the end of the pavement (much of the land around here is Private, so drive on the obvious roads, be respectful, and don't try staying overnight). Either park at the base of the canyon and hike in or drive up above the right side of the canyon then scramble or rappel down.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
2 Weeks Notice
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Pain in the Cass!
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 0
Cass's Pain
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Kool Kats Chimney
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Cool Katz
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 18
The Inquisition
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Benefit of the Doubt
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 27
Where Egos Dare
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Flue Shot
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 27
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
I'm hungry and I have to poop!
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
Stick to your Guns
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Knee Replacement
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Bare Necessities
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Nemesis
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 36
Luck of the Irish
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Not Arrgh
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 40
Moral Dilemma
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
The Quickening
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Factional Infighting
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Presidential Centerfold
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Washingtons' Wig
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Hairy Virgin
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Hue and Cry
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 2
Rock!! n' Roll
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 2
Unknown
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Butterflies Arete
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Parking Slot
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Roosterhead Ridge
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Australian Monk
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 7
Chinese Gauncho
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 25
Brazilian Ninjas
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
West Wave
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Presidential Warfare
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
The Wave
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 14
Damned If You Don't
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 17
Damned If You Do
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Lamenites
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Nephites
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 41
Beggars and Choosers
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 63
Perky's Playground
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 39
Skin Graft
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Buttkutt
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Jezabel
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Lincoln's Lament
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Fat Black Chuck
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 9
Dueling Grandmas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Puppet Strings
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 49
Shotgun Baptism
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
12 Gauge Conversion
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Bitter Recriminations
Sport
V5 6C
 3
Tape Up
Boulder
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 40
Sand Stoner Reverse
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 8
Redneck Wonderland
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Short and Dorky
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
2 Weeks Notice
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pain in the Cass!
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cass's Pain
 0
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Kool Kats Chimney
 2
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Cool Katz
 45
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Inquisition
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Benefit of the Doubt
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Where Egos Dare
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Flue Shot
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow
 27
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
I'm hungry and I have to poop!
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Stick to your Guns
 27
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Knee Replacement
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bare Necessities
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Nemesis
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Luck of the Irish
 36
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Not Arrgh
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Moral Dilemma
 40
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
The Quickening
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Factional Infighting
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Presidential Centerfold
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Washingtons' Wig
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Hairy Virgin
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Hue and Cry
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Rock!! n' Roll
 2
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Unknown
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, TR
Butterflies Arete
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Parking Slot
 2
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Roosterhead Ridge
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Australian Monk
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Chinese Gauncho
 7
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Brazilian Ninjas
 25
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
West Wave
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Presidential Warfare
 15
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Wave
 30
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Damned If You Don't
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R TR
Damned If You Do
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R TR
Lamenites
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Nephites
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Beggars and Choosers
 41
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Perky's Playground
 63
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Skin Graft
 39
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Buttkutt
 2
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Jezabel
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lincoln's Lament
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fat Black Chuck
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dueling Grandmas
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Puppet Strings
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shotgun Baptism
 49
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
12 Gauge Conversion
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Bitter Recriminations
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tape Up
 3
V5 6C Boulder
Sand Stoner Reverse
 40
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Redneck Wonderland
 8
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Short and Dorky
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

12.a sand stoner in reverse
[Hide Photo] 12.a sand stoner in reverse
gap entrance
[Hide Photo] gap entrance
Pretty fun 5.8 chimney, I don't know its name.
[Hide Photo] Pretty fun 5.8 chimney, I don't know its name.
Melissa climbing at the gap.
[Hide Photo] Melissa climbing at the gap.
Local dirtbag living at the crag
[Hide Photo] Local dirtbag living at the crag
Marty Larsen on "Not Arragh" at the Gap
[Hide Photo] Marty Larsen on "Not Arragh" at the Gap
You'll find a plethora of lizards at the Gap
[Hide Photo] You'll find a plethora of lizards at the Gap
Working my way up the chimney.
[Hide Photo] Working my way up the chimney.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] This place has great rock. Fun little sandstone sport climbing area. I was how ever very disappointed in all the trash at this place. There's a washing machine down in the canyon, not to mention other crap. It was really horrible looking!! A lot of anchor bolts were cut and smashed...At least one in the pair would be...Whats up with that...?

Also don't bother using the old guide book for this area... It will just waste your time to try and figure out what is what...And we still don't know must of what we climbed... Just get on it if it looks good.

Also witnessed some bullsh*T at this area. I don't remember the name of the climb (I think it was an .11b...maybe called Moral Dilemma...That would be ironic), anyway some guy removed the first bolt/hanger because it was a spinner... It looked fine and I even clipped it myself (even though you would deck if you fell onto it, but I'm sure it would of held a fall)... But instead of tightening the damn bolt, he just stole the hanger. I wish I would of said something about that, but at the time I didn't think it was my business to say anything (couple of them were locals). I think this group was a bunch of idiots and next time I'll say something...

The guy who stole the hanger had to stick clip the next bolt......PUSSY!

St. G locals...Sorry for not standing up and saying something.... Oct 11, 2006
Jen H
Holladay, Ut
[Hide Comment] Have to agree with the previous post. We spent 2 hours trying to figure out the climbs in the area and was highly disappointed. Bolts and anchors were missing. With all the other areas around St. George, this is one to skip. Nov 4, 2006
jtwalter
Orem, UT
[Hide Comment] I agree that this area isn't the best that St. George has to offer. However, there are some fun routes here in the .10 - easy .12 range, with the majority being top ropes or more moderate climbing. If you're a beginner climber or just starting leading this is a good area to frequent. The routes here are typically short, easy to toprope, while a few of them have missing bolts. This is a good winter crag.

It feels to me that the St. George locals abandoned this area as they found stellar climbing in other areas. Regardless, props to T. Goss and the rest of the St. George crew for their herculean effort in establishing so many lines around St. George. Nov 6, 2007
Kendall
St George, UT
[Hide Comment] I love this area. I'm a local and fairly new to climbing regularly, but I think this will always be one of my favorite spots in St. G. My friends and I had a brand new copy of the guidebook and we found it quite useful, I've heard there have been many improvements on the section on this area from past editions. Anyways, great place to start out, many easy single-pitch climbs and a beautiful area. Apr 1, 2009
[Hide Comment] The bolts that were once missing seem to have found their way back. This area is a really fun area. The routes are short but fun. There are lots of opportunities for short, fun trad climbing all along the cliff band. Most of which use gear anchors or sling boulders for top anchors. It is super fun. Bring your trad gear and have a great day of cragging 30' trad lines. Mar 1, 2010
Andrew W Smith
Salt Lake City, Ut
[Hide Comment] Just a shout-out to the University of Utah. a lot of the new bolts and chains that have been put up in the last 2-3 years were put up by the Climbing department from the U. Mar 27, 2011
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
[Hide Comment] Fabulous area if you want to knock off some great short climbs. The quality of rock is very nice. I recommend it. Sand Stoner Reverse is simply awesome! Apr 5, 2011
Daniel L
Moab
[Hide Comment] I left a gold Link Cam near "hair today gone tomorrow". If anyone finds it, please let me know. Dec 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know who put the route to the left of stick to your guns up, the one straight up the slab? Rating? Thanks. Jan 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] Anyone know what the route name is for the bolted and chained chimney route between "Where Egos Dare" and "Hair Today Gone Tomorrow"? Feb 11, 2014
[Hide Comment] I found a pair of yellow climbing shoes on the morning of June 15, 2017. Email me if you think they are yours.
---- yomama 360 (at) hot mail dot com --- (take out all the spaces of course)

I also lost a walkie talkie radio the same day.
Thanks Jun 25, 2017
[Hide Comment] Can you camp here??? Feb 13, 2018
[Hide Comment] If you left gear on the anchors of "Pain in the Cass" I've got it. message me your setup so i can get it back to its rightful owner. Apr 11, 2018