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Routes in The Overlook

Brenda from Kansas T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Denver Nugget T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Child T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greenfield T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jersey Devil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lobo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Louisville Slugger S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minnesota Fats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Obscurity Risk T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Philadelphia Flyer T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Probe, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Out of Compton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Transylvania T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Yosemite Sam T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 7,900 ft
GPS: 39.98, -105.454 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 7,895 total, 53/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 20, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

A good cliff with a selection of trad and sport climbs. There are 12 routes so far. The crag is the upper tier of Broken Rock and offers great views in a quiet setting high above Boulder Creek.

L->R:

A. Transylvania, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. Cracks to flake to steep face. Start at pine tree by cave.
B. Yosemite Sam, 10+, 1p, 60', gear. Overhanging crack 15' L of C.
C. Louisville Slugger, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Overhanging face 10' L of E.
D. Golden Child, 11, 1p, 55', bolts & gear. Overhanging face to crack 5' L of E.
E. Straight Out of Compton, 8+, 1p, 70', gear. Twin cracks & corner to flake/bulge.
F. Denver Nugget, 7+, 1p, 70', gear. Pod 10' R of E.
G. Minnesota Fats, 10, 1p, 50', gear. Thin crack to shallow offset corners. 35' downhill & L of J.
H. Lobo 10, 1p, 50', gear. Face to hanging flakes. Just R of G.
I. Greenfield, 11, 1p, 80', bolt & gear. Bulge to finger crack. Just R of H.
J. Obscurity Risk, 12-, 1p, 55', gear.
K. Philadelphia Flyer, 11, 1p, 60', 2 bolts & gear. Corners to hand crack through roof. 10' L of K.
L. Jersey Devil 9+, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Corners & roofs on R side of cliff.
M. The Probe 11+, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Climb the roof 10' R of K.

Flake Right?, 7.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Park as for Castle Rock. Cross the bridge and skirt the right (west) side of Broken Rock. At the top of Broken Rock traverse left and reach the far right side of the Overlook. The first route you get to is The Probe; the remaining routes are left and downhill from there.

Approach takes 10-15 minutes.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Overlook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Obscurity Risk
Trad, Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Brenda from Kansas
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Obscurity Risk 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Brenda from Kansas 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Overlook »

Weather Averages

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I found this crag a disappointment as most climbs are over after ten or fifteen feet. Momentum Operator on Broken Rock, along the approach, seemed much more worthwhile. Jun 16, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
According to Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, the route is Obscurity Risk, 12a, FA by Don DeBieux, 1993. Jun 5, 2006
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
T, the route with fixed nuts/pins is an existing climb rated 12a. I forget which guide I saw it in. It would be more friendly if the gear were "updated", but the FAs would need to do that. Jun 5, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Is the line up on the Overlook with the fixed nuts and pins a project, an open project, or an existing climb? Jun 5, 2006

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