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Description

Northwestern Buttress is on the craggy mountain (area name unknown) directly north of Elevenmile Reservoir. On the lowest tier is a slab with numerous bolted lines from another party. About 1/4 mile west is the NW Butt, which contains our route, Sembelance, II 5.10++. (500 ft.) The route begins directly behind a lone, tall Douglas Fir and ascends the long crack system above a long ledge.P1: Climb low-angle crack, with small tree in it, to a large ledge (5.7, 75') Bolts for belay. "Pops on Ice" crack is a direct start 20' right of P1. (5.11a R).P2: Traverse ledge left to chimney and climb up for 40'. Exit crack and traverse right, careful of loose flake and continue 65' up handcrack over a bulge. (5.9) 1 pin and gear for belay. Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined.P3: From sloping ledge, pull the awkward mantle and climb the wide crack to large ledge. Crux pitch (5.10++, 150').P4: Climbs the fist-splitter to the top. (5.9, 65').Descent: is walk-off to the east.Gear: Standard rack, with double 3.5 Camalots for crux. We used a selection of Aliens and TCUs. *1/4 mile west of Sebelance is a wide, overhanging dihedral. Bonehead climbs the crack at 5.10, 80'. Walk off. *West of Bonehead is a 250' tall rock with the route, Coven Corners on it. ...Corners is the obvious dihedral. P1: Climbs the loose crack and traverses left to base of dihedral. (5.7, 100'). P2: Jam and stem the crack to the top. (5.9, 120')

Many more routes waiting to be done.

Getting There

Off Hwy 24, head south toward Elevenmile Village and continue through the park. Road curves due west along the reservoir. Follow for a mile or two, and the crags should be to your right. There is a dirt road on the right (west) side of the road that heads straight to the crags. You'll go through two wire cattle gates before you reach the base of the rocks.Access is open (so far as I know), but you're passing through someone's property to the Natl Forest. Please be respectful and close the gates to and from. If in doubt, ask a local.More info, topos and photos to come...

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