Elevation: 6,439 ft
GPS: 39.54, -105.181 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,638 total · 138/month
Shared By: tobias nitchka on May 16, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Private Property, please ask for permission to climb! Details

Description

This is a burly little roadside crag just up from Deer Creek Canyon (Jeffco Open Space, sw of Denver). There are three sets of chain anchors allowing you to toprope all climbs and variations, but the far right climb is bolted as well, and other climbs could be lead traditionally. Rock quality is sketchy in places, however, especially on the left side. The walk up to the anchors is to the left. The crag is 35/40 feet tall at the most. The rock is gneiss, I think, not unlike what you'll find in Clear Creek.

The climbing is rigorous and challenging--11s and 12s. There's some bouldering to be had as well. This is basically a local after-work crag, not necessarily worth the drive if you're closer to Clear Creek or Boulder, but certainly fun if you're in the area or want to sample something new.

All three main climbs are good and worth a go, and there is definitely room for improvised variations.

L->R:

Heart Shaped Box Boulder, V2-3, 10'.
Jugular, V3.
Random V6, V6, 15'.

A1. Variety Show, 11, 1p, TR.
A2. Horseshoes and Handgrenades, 11+, 1p, TR.
B. The Road Less Traveled, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Paper Planes, V7 PG-13, 20'.
D. Unknown aka The Pump and The Pendulum, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
E1. The Westside Connection, 14-, 1p, 25', bolts.
E2. The Highwayman, 13+, 1p, 30', bolts.

Getting There

From west Denver: Take C-470 south past the Morrison and 285 exits to the Ken Caryl exit. Take a right at the light and drive through the hogback (you'll see signs for Ken Caryl Valley). Stay left through the next light (the road is now called South Valley Rd.) and head through the third light as well. Drive on till you come to a T (there are some nice sandstone formations on your left, but climbing is off-limits), take a left here, then a right at the second T. You're now on the Deer Creek Canyon road heading into the mountains.

or, from Highlands Ranch and places to the south: Take C-470 west/north to the Wadsworth exit. Turn left/south as if going to Chatfield Reservoir, then first right after going under C-40. This road becomes Deer Creek Canyon Rd: take three miles west...

Once on Deer Creek Canyon Rd., pass the brown signs for Deer Creek Canyon (the open space park); stay on the main (windy) road for another two miles. The overhanging crag is right there on the road side on your right with a pullout in front of it. If you get to a strange little place called Phillipsburg you've just passed it.

12 Total Climbs

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