PRINT: Bouldering in Monkey Traverse, Boulder

Monkey Traverse

Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff

Description

The monkey traverse is the center piece of the south side of Flagstaff.It's popular with first time Boulderers who spend most of the time falling off the first couple of moves and grizzled veterans who delight in cruising their one thousandth lap in front of them. The namesake traverse is a must do. Several high ball problems exist as well as a difficult low ball version of the traverse.

Getting There

From the main parking area hike due South for 50 yards passing Smith Overhand along the way. This is a large west facing wall with lots of chalk and an obvious traverse.

Routes from Left to Right

V4 6B 2 ● First Blood (submitted as Crack… Boulder
V4 6B 272 ● The Long Traverse aka The Monkey… Boulder
V3-4 6A+ PG13 28 ● Shallow Slot Boulder
V5 6C 1 ● Shallow Slot SDS Boulder
V1 5 X 13 ● West Overhang Boulder

● First Blood (submitted as C…

V4 6B Boulder

● The Long Traverse aka The M…

272

V4 6B Boulder

● Shallow Slot

V3-4 6A+ PG13 Boulder

● Shallow Slot SDS

V5 6C Boulder

● West Overhang

V1 5 X Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

About 10 min. below the Monkey Traverse, just below the Candle Area. Nice problem, V3 or so. Looks like fresh rock fall on the right side.

Another problem just below the Candle Area, pretty cool problem, bit of an ankle breaker. Nice block for a landing. Need to go back w/ a couple of pads.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Don Bushey

A very large boulder seems to have been recently "relocated" from beneath the final moves of the left side of the traverse. Definately seems like some aggressive and dubious landscaping practices have been employed here. May 20, 2004

George Bell
Boulder, CO

That sucks if that boulder was relocated. That thing has threatened to bust my ankle every time I consider doing the top out (for this reason I have never tried it). If we're thinking of the same boulder, it must weigh over 400 lbs, I'm amazed it could be moved. Anyway this boulder was part of the challenge of the problem, it's not the same problem without it. May 21, 2004

Don Bushey

George, it actually seems that the boulder that was above the finish hasn't been moved, but smashed to pieces. Indeed, the villian(s) responsible for this have forever changed the character of a decades-old classic and beautiful bouldering traverse. May 24, 2004

The boulder below the finish was moved sometime last fall. The first time I noticed "the move" was immediately after last years Flagstaff trail work and cleanup weekend. I sincerley hoped this was just coincidence.

I posted this disheartening change to the frontrangebouldering.com message board and the overwhelming response would fall in the categories of either "I don't care its just Flagstaff", "its better with the rock moved", or "boulders move... the rains probably did it".

Lame. May 24, 2004

Anonymous Coward

I broke my wrist on that boulder 6 years ago. (Brain Fart) There use be a tree there to (Early 90's) if my memory serves me right. I don't think "Landscraping" is a very good idea. I also think it's kind of Lame. - Chris W. Aug 31, 2004

Anonymous Coward

I [don't] know what kind of jerk would have done something like this, but sometime between August 26 and 27 someone put a bunch of crap all on the good holds. And by crap, I mean definite, human crap. Its pretty disgusting, and I was appalled by this lack of respect for the rock and for fellow climbers. Just beware when you go up here next, as the problem is a little harder now that you have to avoid the feces. Aug 27, 2005

Anonymous Coward

Probably the same person that smeared vegetable oil all over the holds at Morrison. Pathetic. Lame. Totally beat.

What's a safe (i.e., non-contaminating) way to get this mess ofF? Aug 28, 2005

ac	[Hide Comment] Time will clean it just fine, that some some use after a week+ of baking in the sun. Bring a moist towelette or a dozen. We should be more worried about the person who plays with his dung than the fact that it was done to a climb. Quite strange and disturbing. Aug 28, 2005

Anonymous Coward

Just a guess, but this assinine behavior sounds like a frat initiation prank. Why would a person go all the way up there and do this unless they were put up to it. Anyway, anyone have a portable high pressure power washer out there and willing to clean this up? Aug 28, 2005

Tom Hanson

Hats off to Matt.He took the initiative to clean The Monkey Traverse. Aug 30, 2005

Anonymous Coward

Just did the monkey and didn't notice any doodoo. Thanks Matt. Aug 30, 2005

XOG	[Hide Comment] Likewise, thanks Matt. Of course it's all guessing, but I'd be more inclined to attribute this to the late night partiers that have been leaving trash and breaking beer bottles against rocks at Flagstaff for as long as I've been climbing up there, than to a frat prank. Aug 31, 2005

bclimbin

Yep, went up there today and there's still shit smeared all over the holds. Must have been someone who's never climbed it before b/c they hit the non-crucial holds for the most part. Dumb shits, people suck. Sep 12, 2005

ac	[Hide Comment] Time for some of those large toothed bear traps? Sep 12, 2005

Jon Zucco
Denver, CO

Derek, that kinda looks like Shallow Slot, V4 PG-13. Apr 6, 2013

Andrew Cope
Boulder

Does anyone know what the problem is going straight up through the top out of Monkey. I've noticed lower holds deteriorate over the past few years, but the solid rock has some quality moves - maybe 4 or so. Jan 30, 2022

J Baldwin

For the sake of historical accuracy, the name is The Long Traverse. Jul 17, 2022