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Routes in Chicken Boulder

Full Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I, Chicken T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Edit]

The Chicken Boulder is a small rock facing E/SE. It is 100 meters left of the Dome/Bishop parking area when facing the Cathedral Spires. From that parking area, you can see the rock as a tall, flat wall facing you, but the single route (now 2) on it ("I, Chicken") is obscured just behind the single tree that stands just between you and that feature.You can recognize the rock by the "keyhole" passing through the bottom of it on the South end, from East to West. The left-offset crack system that starts off as a bulge is the route "I, Chicken," a solid 5.10c. This route gets mid-morning to mid-day sun, as early it is shaded by a tree, and late the sun is over the top and on the other side of the hill and rock. The route can be lead or toproped from a solid stance/body-belay from up top. A finishing or TR anchor was not easily available, but you can sit behind a huge, incut feature that is good enough to belay off of if you are competent to do so. I then ran the rope over a shirt to keep it off of the edge of the feature for the rope's sake.

To walk up to toss down a rope or to walk off after climbing, follow the ridge N/NW 50 feet to an obvious intersection with the gravelly hill, and walk back to the base. It is perhaps 1 minute in total.

The rock is small, that being perhaps 10 meters, but the first route is significantly difficult, perhaps something to be attributed to its largely unclimbed and uncleaned nature, or due to the crux being right off of the deck. In any case, it is a difficult ascent.

Getting There [Edit]

To approach this rock, walk down the road left from the Dome area parking lot (the one with the outhouse) ~100 meters to the near the base of the rock, a mere 7 meters vertical and 10 meters horizontal from the road. Again, if in doubt, you can recognize the rock by the "keyhole" passing through the bottom of it on the South end.

2 Total Climbs

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