Solaris Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40, -105.413 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ray Snead on Oct 4, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, firstname.lastname@example.org, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
There are over a dozen routes here, most of them developed by Richard Rossiter and various partners.
Most routes are fully bolted sport routes, and can be done with a 50m rope and a set of quickdraws. There are a few trad routes and a few that require some gear in addition to the bolts.
Solaris has routes on three levels: the Lower Tier, the Main Wall, and the Summit Tower. To get to the Lower Tier, continue up the talus about a hundred feet above the creek, then cut left and down along the base of the wall for several hundred feet.
Routes on the Lower Tier:
A. Crumbs, 8+, 1p, gear, 60'.
B. Left Line, 8, 1p, 60', bolts. Face with horizontal cracks to slab. Can continue on Leftovers, 5, 120', gear.
C. Arete, 9, 1p, 60', TR.
D. Crack, 9, 1p.
E1. Right Line, 8, 1p, 50', bolts. Face to tree to pillar.
E2. The Right Way, 8, 55', gear.
To get to the Main Wall, continue up the talus and look for cairns. Cut L at the cairns and follow a trail along the base of the wall. The first route you'll see is Contact. The other routes lie several hundred feet farther left, past a gully.
Routes on the Main Wall:
F. Don't Get Me Started, 5, 1p, 70', bolts. Face to ramp.
G. Start Me Up, 7, 1p, 70', bolts. Face to slab.
H. The Luminosity, 9, 1p, 80', bolts. L side of roof.
I. Tower of Power, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts. R side of roof.
J. My Place In the Universe, 11, 1p, 65', gear.
K. Mission to Mars, 10-, 1p, 40', bolts & gear. Crack by tree.
L. Party On, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
M. Harvest Moon, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 80', gear.
To the right of the below mentioned gully.
Q. Contact 9, 1-2p, 130', bolts. Corner to face.
A steep gully lies between Contact and Mission To Mars. There are 3 routes on a ledge on the right at the top of this gully.
N. Mephistophiles, 10, 1p, 60', gear & bolt. Finger crack to face to crack.
O. Twilight Zone, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts. Face.
P. Kundalini Express, 8, 1p, 80', gear. Dihedral to slab to headwall. R of Twilight Zone.
The Summit Tower is on the tier above the Main Wall (according to R. Rossiter's excellent guidebook is Japanese Garden):
R. Stellar Drifter, 9, 1-2p, 150', gear. Crack by tree.
S. Cosmic Explorer, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts. Slab R of P2 of Stellar Drifter.
T. Chomo Lungma, 7.
At the cutoff to the Main Wall, you can head south (upstream) and find a path to the Tarot Wall area on Avalon.
Approach #2: If the water is too high to wade, you'll have to cross the creek via a tyrolean traverse. Unfortunately, the tyrolean traverse that used to be set up below Solaris is no longer present (as of 5/25/06), so the easiest tyrolean to use is the one below Avalon, another tenth of a mile up the canyon. You can park at a paved pullout on the right across from Avalon at 8.2 miles to shorten the walk to the Avalon tyrolean. Use the Avalon tyrolean, then hike up the talus angling left below the First Tier of Avalon. Continue up to the left side of Tarot Wall on the Second Tier of Avalon, and take a path north (downstream) toward Solaris. Go through a short wooded section, cross a talus field and within several hundred feet you'll arrive at a trail leading to the Main Wall of Solaris (look for cairns).
Classic Climbing Routes at Solaris
Days w Precip