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Sunset Cantina

Colorado > Independence Pass > Lincoln Creek

Description

This is a great rock for moderate level toproping or traditional climbing (5.7-5.9). The rock features some jug climbing with very protectable cracks. Bring a standard rack and knock off some quick trad climbs, or simply toprope via bolts. The rock is solid but there's a lot of loose dirt in some of the pockets. Be careful not to kick a faceload into your belayer's eyes!

Getting There

Take CO 82 for about 9.5 miles out of Aspen and up Independence Pass. Take a right on Lincoln Creek Road, and drive for about 1/2 mile (this road is rough but passable in passenger vehicles). After the first hairpin turn, find a small pullout area on the right side of the road. The trail starts here on the opposite side of the road. It's about a 2 minute walk.

Per Blake Davis: alternatively, use the parking for Finger Food Wall, and take the same trail. Pass Finger Food, Sunset Cantina is 2-3 minutes further up the trail. Both are nice spots.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
TR Right
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
5.7 unnamed
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Fried Brains
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
All You Can Eat
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Left Over
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
TR Right
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
5.7 unnamed
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Fried Brains
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
All You Can Eat
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Left Over
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The right route.
[Hide Photo] The right route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tyler Vaughan
Glenwood Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Almost all anchors on this wall were updated June 2012, the ones I didn't replace have good anchors. Sep 16, 2012
Blake Davis
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Alternate directions I found easier... use parking for Finger Food Wall and take the same trail. Pass FF, Sunset Cantina is 2-3 minutes further up the trail. Both are nice spots. Jun 23, 2016