Millennium Crag Rock Climbing
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
|Page Views:||6,403 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 30, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more info visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
The rock on Millennium Crag is most like the rock on Lower Peanuts wall, it is good sandstone in most places, and is given to exfoliating in large, thin sheets in places, so keep your eyes open for signs of this. Like most less-traveled Eldo stone, some cleaning was done, and some remains to be done. The rock is chewing-gum sticky, but still licheny in most areas, so again, some brushing would benefit this crag. When it came to lichen, only minor cleaning was done, as it did not seem worthwhile or necessary to clean the routes for a single passage of them. We doubted that this crag will see frequent traffic in the future. Millennium Crag faces NW, but is slightly low angle, so it gets sun in the summer just after noon, although probably MUCH later in the winter, if at all on the shortest of days.
There are presently 6 [submitted] routes on the crag, [all these] thought to be FA'd by Bubb/Spindloe with reasonable evidence and certainty. All [six] of these are somewhat moderate in grade and at least moderately runout, a few severely so. None are "must do" routes at all, let alone classics. The real reason to seek this crag would be for the adventure and for some new route work, or to simply be alone.
To descend from any route, walk SE down from the top to the lower end of the crag to the base (does not look the best) or up to the NE toward the top of the crag to a reasonable scramble down (3rd class) and then walk back to the base of any climb. Two rap anchors, (black 9/16" super tape sling on a solid, large tree) were on put and left on the cliff as well, from which a 60M rope will easily touch down. These are as follows: down and left below the top of "Throwing the Baby" (scramble down to it) and one at the shared belay above "Carpet Bombing" and "B-52." These should probably be re-enforced with a second sling and quality Rapid-link.
Approach as for Peanuts Wall, walking up the Rattlesnake Gulch/Fowler Trail (preferred), or from the Bastille West-side trail (not preferred). This crag lies perhaps 200 yards West of the Petite Bastille and 300 yards East of lower Peanuts. After locating it from the access road (Fowler Trail), scramble up talus to reach the lower left end (NE end). From there, most route locations will be given. Total approach time was 10-15 minutes, including the talus scramble of about 5 minutes. To go from climb to climb along the base, walk closely to the cliff line whenever possible, and follow in the deep footprints in the soft earth - it is doubtful that any real trail here will ever exist.
Days w Precip