Elevation: 6,035 ft
GPS: 38.874, -104.878 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 52,844 total · 248/month
Shared By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Jan 9, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: 2020 Seasonal Closures Details

Description

I was looking at the rock areas for the Garden of the Gods recently, and I realized that there was little to no mention of the bouldering to be found at The Garden. I was recently down there, and I spent a little time looking at guidebooks and hiking around the park and seeing what was to be seen for bouldering.

The bouldering in The Garden is mostly long, sustained traverses. The holds are fairly similar to what you would find on a Garden route. They range from slopey pockets to positive pockets, from positive edges to sand-filled crimps. There are four main areas that I went to. I have no idea of any established route names and/or routes for that matter. So if you have any input go ahead and add it, please.

The Snake Pit area is a small collection of three or four boulders that apparently fell off of Kindergarten Rock sometime ago. The rock is fairly coarse sandstone, that is similar to Flagstaff. It may not be quite as solid. The rock here reminded me of coral or something.

Getting There

To get there, park in the South Garden parking lot (just follow the road around until you start heading north again). Out of the lot go north and follow a trail a quarter mile or so. The rocks will be on the left side of the trail. They are located just below New Era. Remember no parking along the road.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

Here are some documented examples from the Garden of the Gods staff:

Chalk at the Snake Pits.

Chalk at the Snake Pits.

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Snake Pit Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3
 4
Arch Route
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 5
The Prow (Stand)
Boulder
V2 5+
 7
West Face Left
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 6
Why Are You Upside Down?(West Cr…
Boulder
V3- 6A
 16
Unknown (Compression Northeast)
Boulder
V3 6A
 17
East Face Crimps
Boulder
V3 6A
 16
South Face
Boulder
V3 6A
 3
One Day They'll Know
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 24
Unknown Dyno
Boulder
V4 6B
 16
Unknown V4
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 4
Unknown Variation of V4 on West…
Boulder
V7 7A+
 34
Unknown V7 aka Slapper
Boulder
V7+ 7A+
 14
East Overhang of Mongoose Block
Boulder
V8 7B
 7
Low Traverse into Slapper
Boulder
V8-9 7B+
 4
Bitch Slap
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Arch Route Arch Boulder (aka Gro…
 4
V-easy 3 Boulder
The Prow (Stand) Mongoose Block
 5
V0+ 4+ Boulder
West Face Left Arch Boulder (aka Gro…
 7
V2 5+ Boulder
Why Are You Upside Down?(We… Arch Boulder (aka Gro…
 6
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Unknown (Compression Northe… Mongoose Block
 16
V3- 6A Boulder
East Face Crimps Boulder (aka Fang Bou…
 17
V3 6A Boulder
South Face Boulder (aka Fang Bou…
 16
V3 6A Boulder
One Day They'll Know Arch Boulder (aka Gro…
 3
V3 6A Boulder
Unknown Dyno Traverse Boulder (aka…
 24
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Unknown V4 Mongoose Block
 16
V4 6B Boulder
Unknown Variation of V4 on… Mongoose Block
 4
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Unknown V7 aka Slapper Mongoose Block
 34
V7 7A+ Boulder
East Overhang of Mongoose B… Mongoose Block
 14
V7+ 7A+ Boulder
Low Traverse into Slapper Mongoose Block
 7
V8 7B Boulder
Bitch Slap Mongoose Block
 4
V8-9 7B+ Boulder
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