PRINT: Rock Climbing in Castaway Crag, Estes Park Valley

A. Castaway Crag

Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Trib… > Crags > Lower Great Face

Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED Details

Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.

Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.

Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.

Description

Castaway has an interesting mix of single pitch trad and sport routes on a relatively small, steep outcropping. The rock is gneiss (typical of this area), so be prepared to confront lichenous, sometimes insubstantial rock in places. Most of the routes are on the colorful north face, receive little sun and offer an escape from a hot day. Two recently installed sets of top anchors allow quick raps from all routes. "What's My Line" (10b), a challenging trad lead up a series of thin interconnected cracks, will keep you in suspense. "Atmospheric Testing" (10+ sport) will definitely expose you to the rarified air.

Getting There

Take CO Highway 7 south from Estes Park for 6 miles, turn off at Lily Lake Visitor Center. Park at the Twin Sister's Trailhead (the 'north' approach) and take the trail for 3 switchbacks (important!). Find a faint trail going uphill and follow it, or its general direction until you find the expansive talus slopes underlying The Crags. Mountain goat your way up the talus to the first huge face, The Lower Great Face, and find Castaway Crag at its lower left end (facing the rock). Be forewarned, this is at least a 45 minute uphill thrutch and will cost at least a liter of sweat.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 3 ● Air Conditioning Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 16 ● Crashed At Sea Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 2 ● Flying Wallendas Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 9 ● What's My Line Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 13 ● Atmospheric Testing Sport

● Air Conditioning

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR

● Crashed At Sea

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

● Flying Wallendas

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

● What's My Line

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Atmospheric Testing

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

'North exposure'.