PRINT: Rock Climbing in The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can), Boulder Canyon

The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)

Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock opened 5/19/25. Details

On 5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.

2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:

Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…

Description

The Beer Can sports four (one without hangers) bolted climbs, but the approach, long rappels and odd nature of the climbs gives the feeling of a full on trad adventure to the climber willing to seek this gem. For those who bring the rack, a 5.9 offwidth also awaits to round out the climbing. I found the two 5.10s, rated 10b and 10c in Rolofson's book, to be switched, the 10c felt 10b and the 10b felt 10c. Bring 14 draws, a 60 meter rope and the truth!

The three sport routes all lead to one set of anchors (three bolts) and begin at small belay stances; each stance is bolted. The approach is short, but I found no obvious route through the brambles, and a 3rd class scramble leads to the belays.

L->R:

A. Beer Belly, 9+, 1p, 105', gear.
B. Hydraulic Sandwich, 10, 1p, 105', bolts.
C1. Cheap Swill?, 12+, 1p, 100', bolts?
C2. Icy Paralyzer, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts.
C3. Drink to Puke, 10, 1p, 105', bolts.

Getting There

Park as for the Boulderado and cross Boulder Creek. There is a Tyrolean here. Looking up stream the Beer Can is easily spotted: a large granite area capped by a smaller face of rock. Hike up through the brush and scramble the last 25 feet to the belay area.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 2 ● Beer Belly Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 30 ● Hydraulic Sandwich Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 12 ● Icy Paralyzer Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 16 ● The Angel of Death (formerly lis… Sport

● Beer Belly

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad

● Hydraulic Sandwich

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

● Icy Paralyzer

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

● The Angel of Death (formerl…

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper Narrows topo overview.

The scramble up to the routes.

A view of "The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)" from across the canyon.

The Beer Can. Hydraulic Sandwich turns the big roof on the left; Icy Paralyzer and Drink to Puke turn the roof on the right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO

If you cross the creek by the upper end of the parking area across from the Boulderado, you'll find a trail angling up and right toward the left side of the Beer Can. Take this trail up to the rock, and scramble up to a small ledge with two bolted belay anchors. The left belay anchor is for Hydraulic Sandwich (10b); the right anchor is for Drink To Puke (10c) and Icy Paralyzer (11a). There's enough room on the ledge to stash your pack, but you may want to gear up below, since the ledge is quite exposed. Bring a 60-meter rope, 10 quickdraws, 5 extendable runners, something for the belay anchors, and something for the 3-bolt anchor at the top. The routes zig-zag, and doing them with only short quickdraws will cause severe rope drag. All three routes are well-protected and a lot of fun: two stars for clean rock, airy moves, and variety. Hydraulic Sandwich has 12 bolts, Drink To Puke has 14, and Icy Paralyzer has 15, all in 90 to 95 feet. Drink To Puke seemed easier than10c; perhaps 9+ or 10a; the ratings on the other routes seemed accurate. All three routes are well-described in Rossiter's and Rolofson's guidebooks. Aug 23, 2002

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO

These routes are better, more sustained, and harder than most modern Boulder Canyon sport routes of a similar grade (eg, at Sleeping Beauty, Avalon, Plotinus, Bowling Alley).

Above the top anchors is a beer can wedged in a crack--Bud Lite. Is the crag named after the can, or was the can placed to let you know you are at the right crag? Aug 29, 2004

coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO

Fun climbs. The approach was a little full of poison ivy so be sure to rinse off in the river on your way back to the car. Watch your rope on those edges! Aug 9, 2005

George Bracksieck

Yesterday, no Tyrolean and no poison ivy. The previous poster may be confusing another shrub with PI. Sep 25, 2015