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Mushroom Massif

Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vrain Ca…
Warning Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a large, wide crag on the south side of the river at mile 3.8. You probably won't see it driving up the canyon, but it is quite striking when coming down canyon. The rock seems to be grainy and rounded. Most climbs face north and are quite shady, even in mid-summer. The base of the crag is several hundred feet above the river.

Getting There

Park at a large pullout on the south side of the road at about mile 3.8. This pullout is a hundred yards or so upstream of the crag, which is visible from here. Cross the river (wading is probably required Spring into Summer), and head SE to the crag. There is quite a bit of poison ivy in this area, so be careful. A sandy, barren shoulder seems to be the easiest way to access the crag, and there is a faint trail up it.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 3
● Mongoose
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 0
● Katrina
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 1
● Granitude
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
● Raven's Nest
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Body Snatcher
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
● Lichen Psilocybin
Trad, Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 5
● Cold Water Drama
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
● Canto
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● Pollemor
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
● Grip
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 1
● Unknown
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
● The Mushroom
Sport 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 7
● Freewheelin'
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 2
● Locked and Loaded
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
● Godspeed
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
● Easy Street
Trad, Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
● Quartz Dancer
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Mongoose
 3
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
● Katrina
 0
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Granitude
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
● Raven's Nest
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Body Snatcher
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Lichen Psilocybin
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
● Cold Water Drama
 5
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
● Canto
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Pollemor
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● Grip
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Unknown
 1
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● The Mushroom
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
● Freewheelin'
 7
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Sport 2 pitches
● Locked and Loaded
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
● Godspeed
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
● Easy Street
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
● Quartz Dancer
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This 6 footer may greet you along the trail. He doesn't like getting stepped upon.
[Hide Photo] This 6 footer may greet you along the trail. He doesn't like getting stepped upon.
The left side of the Massif.
[Hide Photo] The left side of the Massif.
06-25-2002
[Hide Photo] 06-25-2002
The Massif as seen from the approach trail to the Ticket Booth
[Hide Photo] The Massif as seen from the approach trail to the Ticket Booth

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
[Hide Comment] Definitely watch for poison ivy on the approach, it's very sneaky.... Not bad if you're paying attention though and be careful crossing the river, it can be strong. May 29, 2009
Aaron Johnston
fort collins
[Hide Comment] These routes are not in the correct order currently.

Canto should be just to the right of Cold Water Drama. Lichen Psilocybin should be to the left (there is a route not listed on MP between Cold Water Drama and Lichen Psilocybin).

It would be helpful to think of Mushroom Massif as having subareas. The first three routes (when sorted L->R) are in an area called Afungusamongus Chasm (according to Gillett’s guidebook). The next 2 routes (among a handful of others), are part of another corridor system. Between the multiple subareas, Mushroom Massif seems to have sun or shade at just about any given time (except maybe early morning). Oct 19, 2023