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Routes in The Lion's Den

Arete T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bear Hug S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bride S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groom S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Higher Learning S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hole in the Wall S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Katie's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lion's Mane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Offwidth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 1 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 2 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 4 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 6 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown 7 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 8 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Description [Suggest Change]

Haven't found your fill of classic sport lines wandering the main corridors and spires of the Monastery? A few more gems are hiding out in the Lion's Den. Here you might find a little more solitude, more underbrush and scree beneath the routes and even better views. The lines tend to be short and spread about the maze that is the LD. Routes in the LD proper as well as the adjecent Nursery will be described here.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

The LD lies uphill - northwest of the Guardian. The approach path(s) are quite faint. After reaching the Guardian, the first rock reached via the Monastery trail, head directly uphill passing the Catacomb on the left. Keeping close to the rock formations on the left, the Nursery will shortly come into view. Two superb bolted 5.6 are located here accessible to toproping. Climb further uphill past the last major rock formations (few or no routes currently) and drop down the hillside to the SW. You will reach a small crag with 2 sport routes (7 and 11a) and a 11a wide crack. Just downhill from this is Bearhug(11a), a sport line with a very nice position on a gently overhanging prow. Down a loose scree filled gully you will finally reach the sport lines on Wedding (a 7 and 9 sharing an anchor) and Barnacle Rocks (a 9+) Alternatively one can access these two rocks by dropping down from the main approach into the Catacomb past the routes the Gravestone and Mausoleum, and scramble right across and below several rock ribs.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Lion's Den

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
Bride
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 34
Groom
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Higher Learning
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Bear Hug
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bride
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Groom
 34
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Higher Learning
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bear Hug
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Lion's Den »

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There are a number of new routes in this area that have Fixe hangers painted dark brown and use twisted 3/8" quicklinks for rappel anchors. Hopefully, the FA team will add the requisite information to the Mountain Project database. Jun 28, 2015
Hi Bruce, my friend Tom Kohlmann is likely the activist you seek. The camo brown bolts and twist rap anchors are his trademark. He does not publish his routes but has supplied them to local guidebook author, Bernard Gillett. In the interim, I can attest that his products tend to be safe, moderate, and enjoyable, while many want for only the natural cleaning of repeat ascents to achieve classic status. Oct 4, 2015

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