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The Wall of Voodoo Rock Climbing
Routes in The Wall of Voodoo
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Social Justice Warrior (new name) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sufferin' Succotash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Voodoo Child S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 6,929 ft |
| GPS: |
40.00161, -105.38752 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 6,737 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Willie Mein on Jun 14, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - updated
Details
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This small, but steep, granite crag currently has three quality sport routes.
Although some of the rock tends to be crumbly, the routes are generally high quality climbing on good granite. The routes are well equipped with bomber bolts and excellent anchors. A single rope and 10-11 draws will get you back to the ground.
The climbing on this crag is both steep and funky, with the two right most routes having remarkably different climbing from one another despite being 20 feet apart.
With after noon shade, this Southeast-facing cliff is worth visiting on a hot day. Together with its immediate neighbor Bitty Buttress, there are many high quality routes of all grades in this area.
L->R:
A. Voodoo Child, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Social Justice Warrior (new name), 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Sufferin' Succotash, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
Although some of the rock tends to be crumbly, the routes are generally high quality climbing on good granite. The routes are well equipped with bomber bolts and excellent anchors. A single rope and 10-11 draws will get you back to the ground.
The climbing on this crag is both steep and funky, with the two right most routes having remarkably different climbing from one another despite being 20 feet apart.
With after noon shade, this Southeast-facing cliff is worth visiting on a hot day. Together with its immediate neighbor Bitty Buttress, there are many high quality routes of all grades in this area.
L->R:
A. Voodoo Child, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Social Justice Warrior (new name), 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Sufferin' Succotash, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
Getting There
To get to The Wall of Voodoo, one can approach via the directions described for Bitty Buttress or via the route described below.
The Wall of Voodoo is a small crag located beneath the Bitty Buttress, one of the Eastern-most formations of the greater Blob Rock Massif. Start hiking the climber's trail that begins at a pullout on the North side of the canyon, about 25m west of the pullout to Cob Rock. This is the preferred parking and approach trail to Blob Rock.
After about 50 yards, where the trail gains a small bench and then heads uphill again, go straight East instead. Contour your way down canyon for about 50 yards, till you find the well beaten climber's trail that parallels the Canyon Road along the top edge of the road cut. Follow this trail to the Base of Bitty Buttress. From the Base of Bitty Buttress, descend the Gully to the East of The Wall of Voodoo cliff below, until the bolted routes come into view. Descend all routes from fixed anchors.
The Wall of Voodoo is a small crag located beneath the Bitty Buttress, one of the Eastern-most formations of the greater Blob Rock Massif. Start hiking the climber's trail that begins at a pullout on the North side of the canyon, about 25m west of the pullout to Cob Rock. This is the preferred parking and approach trail to Blob Rock.
After about 50 yards, where the trail gains a small bench and then heads uphill again, go straight East instead. Contour your way down canyon for about 50 yards, till you find the well beaten climber's trail that parallels the Canyon Road along the top edge of the road cut. Follow this trail to the Base of Bitty Buttress. From the Base of Bitty Buttress, descend the Gully to the East of The Wall of Voodoo cliff below, until the bolted routes come into view. Descend all routes from fixed anchors.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Wall of Voodoo
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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