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Garden Party Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Garden Party Wall
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Can't Please Everyone S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Love T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Illusionist, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Right Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Topiary S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 7,050 ft |
| GPS: | 40.001, -105.397 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 7,243 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 10, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update
Details
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Garden Party Wall is a 70' tall, North-facing buttress just up the hill and Southwest of Sherwood Forest. It is visible from across the river and road from The Bihedral, Happy Hour Crag, and Security Risk, as a vertical ironing board of rock just uphill and west of Sherwood Forest.
The rock is predominantly shaded in the morning, but gets afternoon sun in the summer. The granite is good, and high friction, but only where the rock is clean of lichen flakes and moss. Side-pulls and sloper feet are the general rule on the 4 trad routes there.
If you climb trad here, bring a double set of small stoppers, and maybe a wire brush!
To descend, there is a 2-chain anchor on the north-most point of the wall above the trad routes. This makes a lousy TR anchor, however, as your rope will be run through a funnel to a finger-crack across the edge. Although the rap can be made without getting the rope stuck, TR'ing without that consequence seems unlikely.
The wall sports 5 routes, all of which are dirty and lichened, but all of which could improve with traffic. R. Rossiter's book gives two of the trad routes here stars, those being Right Crack (5.10c) and Dirty Love (5.10c). The moves are good, but do you love dirt? You'll have to climb through some on these routes.
In progress:
A. Arete, 10a, 1p, gear.
B. Dirty Love, 10 R, 1p, 70', gear.
C. Right Crack, 10 R, 1p, 70', gear.
D. Filthy English Pig Dog, 9, 1p, gear.
E. Excalibur, 11+, 1p, bolts & pins.
F. Big Men On Paper, 11+, 1p, bolts & gear.
G. The Illusionist, 12-, 1p, 66', bolts & gear.
H. Topiary, 11+, 1p, 53', bolts.
I. Can't Please Everyone, 11-, 1p, 51', bolts.
The rock is predominantly shaded in the morning, but gets afternoon sun in the summer. The granite is good, and high friction, but only where the rock is clean of lichen flakes and moss. Side-pulls and sloper feet are the general rule on the 4 trad routes there.
If you climb trad here, bring a double set of small stoppers, and maybe a wire brush!
To descend, there is a 2-chain anchor on the north-most point of the wall above the trad routes. This makes a lousy TR anchor, however, as your rope will be run through a funnel to a finger-crack across the edge. Although the rap can be made without getting the rope stuck, TR'ing without that consequence seems unlikely.
The wall sports 5 routes, all of which are dirty and lichened, but all of which could improve with traffic. R. Rossiter's book gives two of the trad routes here stars, those being Right Crack (5.10c) and Dirty Love (5.10c). The moves are good, but do you love dirt? You'll have to climb through some on these routes.
In progress:
A. Arete, 10a, 1p, gear.
B. Dirty Love, 10 R, 1p, 70', gear.
C. Right Crack, 10 R, 1p, 70', gear.
D. Filthy English Pig Dog, 9, 1p, gear.
E. Excalibur, 11+, 1p, bolts & pins.
F. Big Men On Paper, 11+, 1p, bolts & gear.
G. The Illusionist, 12-, 1p, 66', bolts & gear.
H. Topiary, 11+, 1p, 53', bolts.
I. Can't Please Everyone, 11-, 1p, 51', bolts.
Getting There
Approach as for Sherwood Forest, coming first to the climbs on that wall. From the right-hand end of Sherwood Forest Crag proceed Southwest on a trail up the hill until the Garden Party Wall appears through the trees. Walk SW below it until you can clearly see a vertical gully of bad rock that bisects the two main buttresses. Approach the cliff at this point, climbing up a slot behind a flake to reach a shelf at the base of the left side for all of the trad routes, or proceed to the right-most arete on the right hand buttress to climb the single bolted line there.
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