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Garden Party Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Garden Party Wall
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Can't Please Everyone S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Love T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Illusionist, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Right Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Topiary S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 7,050 ft | 2,149 m |
| GPS: |
40.0013, -105.3968 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 9,785 total · 35/month | |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 10, 2002 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting
Details
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Garden Party Wall is a 70' tall, North-facing buttress just up the hill and Southwest of Sherwood Forest. It is visible from across the river and road from The Bihedral, Happy Hour Crag, and Security Risk, as a vertical ironing board of rock just uphill and west of Sherwood Forest.
The rock is predominantly shaded in the morning, but gets afternoon sun in the summer. The granite is good, and high friction, but only where the rock is clean of lichen flakes and moss. Side-pulls and sloper feet are the general rule on the 4 trad routes there.
If you climb trad here, bring a double set of small stoppers, and maybe a wire brush!
To descend, there is a 2-chain anchor on the north-most point of the wall above the trad routes. This makes a lousy TR anchor, however, as your rope will be run through a funnel to a finger-crack across the edge. Although the rap can be made without getting the rope stuck, TR'ing without that consequence seems unlikely.
The wall sports 5 routes, all of which are dirty and lichened, but all of which could improve with traffic. R. Rossiter's book gives two of the trad routes here stars, those being Right Crack (5.10c) and Dirty Love (5.10c). The moves are good, but do you love dirt? You'll have to climb through some on these routes.
In progress:
A. Arete, 10a, 1p, gear.
B. Dirty Love, 10 R, 1p, 70', gear.
C. Right Crack, 10 R, 1p, 70', gear.
D. Filthy English Pig Dog, 9, 1p, gear.
E. Excalibur, 11+, 1p, bolts & pins.
F. Big Men On Paper, 11+, 1p, bolts & gear.
G. The Illusionist, 12-, 1p, 66', bolts & gear.
H. Topiary, 11+, 1p, 53', bolts.
I. Can't Please Everyone, 11-, 1p, 51', bolts.
The rock is predominantly shaded in the morning, but gets afternoon sun in the summer. The granite is good, and high friction, but only where the rock is clean of lichen flakes and moss. Side-pulls and sloper feet are the general rule on the 4 trad routes there.
If you climb trad here, bring a double set of small stoppers, and maybe a wire brush!
To descend, there is a 2-chain anchor on the north-most point of the wall above the trad routes. This makes a lousy TR anchor, however, as your rope will be run through a funnel to a finger-crack across the edge. Although the rap can be made without getting the rope stuck, TR'ing without that consequence seems unlikely.
The wall sports 5 routes, all of which are dirty and lichened, but all of which could improve with traffic. R. Rossiter's book gives two of the trad routes here stars, those being Right Crack (5.10c) and Dirty Love (5.10c). The moves are good, but do you love dirt? You'll have to climb through some on these routes.
In progress:
A. Arete, 10a, 1p, gear.
B. Dirty Love, 10 R, 1p, 70', gear.
C. Right Crack, 10 R, 1p, 70', gear.
D. Filthy English Pig Dog, 9, 1p, gear.
E. Excalibur, 11+, 1p, bolts & pins.
F. Big Men On Paper, 11+, 1p, bolts & gear.
G. The Illusionist, 12-, 1p, 66', bolts & gear.
H. Topiary, 11+, 1p, 53', bolts.
I. Can't Please Everyone, 11-, 1p, 51', bolts.
Getting There
Approach as for Sherwood Forest, coming first to the climbs on that wall. From the right-hand end of Sherwood Forest Crag proceed Southwest on a trail up the hill until the Garden Party Wall appears through the trees. Walk SW below it until you can clearly see a vertical gully of bad rock that bisects the two main buttresses. Approach the cliff at this point, climbing up a slot behind a flake to reach a shelf at the base of the left side for all of the trad routes, or proceed to the right-most arete on the right hand buttress to climb the single bolted line there.
Classic Climbing Routes at Garden Party Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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