? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab aka Stanley Slab or Stanley Road or Frontage River Road Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.755, -105.558 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Jun 6, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
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DescriptionThis is a combination of entries to reduce duplication in the database.
This is a little, north-facing slab that attracts your eye as you drive by on I-70. I'm sure it has a name, but I don't know it. Perhaps it's even in your database, but I can't find it. Perhaps you can tell us what its name is. It is located very close to exit 238 off I-70 across Clear Creek only 2 minutes from the road. I've often wondered about it. We checked it out and there are lo and behold 3 sport routes, 1 TR anchor and room for perhaps another couple routes.
It is steeper than it looks. It has a sort of granite-quartzite feel to it with wonderfully crisp edges. It still may shed a few holds with traffic. I popped off 1 foot hold and 1 hand hold.
A. The left route has 9 (or 10) bolts with a 2 bolt anchor with a nest of webbing and a biner & link to rap. It is 30m. A 50m rope leaves a partner at the 2nd bolt. 5.9+ & slightly devious.
B. The center route is 10 bolts long and starts next to a Dept. of Highways little plaque. It is sustained and very interesting. It is at times hard to decipher it. It goes to a 2 bolt Fixe/rap ring anchor. 2 cruxes, 1 at the start and another 2/3 the way up. 25m. 5.10b.
C. The right route is 9 bolts long and starts with a left or right (easier) beginning. It sports 2 cruxes. 1st is at the 3rd bolt. The 2nd is at the 6th bolt. Good edges. The last bolt does not currently have a hanger. A wire or something might be useful to loop the bolt. It shares the 2 bolt Fixe/rap ring anchor. 5.11a IMHO.
Addendum: I didn't enter the routes separately, since I had no info on the names, FA, etc. Please add the routes if you have more info. Thanks!
There is a TR anchor to the right. Didn't try that.
There is a fixed rope up a gully to the right.
These may be accessible from above for TRs.
I-70 road noise is inescapable.
Per Harald Harb: This is a shady face on south side of road, 5 minute access climb. Three bolted climbs. The climb on the east of the slab is a 5.9+. Middle climb is 5.10a and right or west most climb is rated 5.11, but feels more like CC canyon 5.10c or d. I'm not aware of names for the climbs.
The first clips on both the rightmost climbs, 5.10 and 5.11 are high and a bad ground fall is a possibility, unless your climbing grade is well above 5.11. Stick clip or bring your own pro. The climbs are really fun, great if you are a local climber looking for an after work climbing session.
Getting ThereI-70 west of Denver. 2 approaches are possible.
You can get off in Idaho Springs and get on Colorado Blvd (North of the highway) which is the main street. Drive west and cross under the highway and then south of Clear Creek. Drive just west of exit 238 and find this slab just off the road to the south.
You can get off at the Dumont exit and cross under the highway, across Clear Creek and then back east a couple miles until you are just across from where Fall River Rd veers off N towards St. Mary's Glacier.
Hike up a loose scree path 2 minutes at most to its base.
Per Harald Harb: take the frontage road west from Idaho Springs. About 2 miles west across from where Fall River comes into Clear Creek is a flat reddish slab with three routes. Park just up or down from the crag, no parking below the climbing area. Be aware this area has rock fall, so park in a safe area and walk a few minutes more to be safe.
Per Matt Gillham: the wall is 0.02 miles north of Trail Creek Road. goo.gl/maps/IRfO.
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