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Continental Crag

Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Continental Crag is another "wilderness setting" within Eldorado canyon. It is a place where you can go and climb, and count on being alone. In all of my time in Eldo, I have never witnessed another party there. There is a string of crags upward in elevation on the South side, extending up in elevation, from Lower Peanuts Wall, to Upper Peanuts Wall, to Continental Crag. Continental Crag is the highest in the string, and while quite wide, is not terribly tall, as the bottom of the formation is not very good. The upper section, particularly of the Southwest end, however, is quite good. Despite its size and solid rock, perhaps due to the longer approach and lack of development or protection, it does not see much traffic, even on holiday weekends. The setting is a nice, and somewhat unique, perhaps due to the combination of its North by Northwest aspect and its relatively high elevation. From a distance, at almost any angle, the dihedrals and roofs of Continental Crag are obvious. Many went for years without ascents and have only recently been attempted or climbed. Continental Crag faces Northwest and gathers light later in the day. The sun rarely breaches the face in the winter, and snow collects and remains at the base well into the spring months. The climbs mostly involve moderate to hard, (but well protected) crack climbing, such as Paradise Lost (5.8), Plate Tectonics (5.9), Continental Drift (5.10d) or Primal Scream (5.11d). There is now some harder face climbing established between horizontals, such as Rift Of Consciousness, (a 5.11, S). None of these has or should be bolted, as they were lead from the ground up on trad gear. There is a fair amount of wide crack to be had, so if you hike all of the way up there, take a few larger pieces (up to #5 Camalot or a few big bros). Some recent development has resulted in some other new routes, such as Welcome to Eldo (5.10, OW)

Descent: To descend after climbing, S/SW (up the ridge and to the climber's right) to a fixed rap, or walk left down the ridge to below, in the notch between Upper Peanuts Wall and Continental Crag. This walk-off requires some easy scrambling, but like the crag in and of itself, is not a place for inexperienced climbers.

Getting There

Approach as for Upper Peanuts Wall, but continue up the cliff line base until the crag is in full view. From the top 1/3 of the base, walk up and left on ledges and scramble to the base of the solid rock. This will put you just NorthEast (above) the start of Continental Drift, and Southwest (below) Primal Scream. This approach should take about 45 minutes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 0
Whatever Pops Up Next
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Welcome to Eldo
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Plate Tectonics
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Continental Drift
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
 2
Rift Of Consciousness
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 0
Bonsai
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 0
Cougar Bait
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 0
Last, But Not Least
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
Continental Soldier
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 0
River of Deceit
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Continental Breakfast
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Pangaea
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Primal Scream
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 3
Whymper
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
On-Slot
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Fuzzy Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Whatever Pops Up Next
 0
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Welcome to Eldo
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Plate Tectonics
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Continental Drift
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Rift Of Consciousness
 2
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R Trad, TR
Bonsai
 0
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Cougar Bait
 0
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Last, But Not Least
 0
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Continental Soldier
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
River of Deceit
 0
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Continental Breakfast
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Pangaea
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Primal Scream
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Whymper
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
On-Slot
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Fuzzy Crack
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From Mike McHugh, ECSP Park Resource Technician, March 2023.
[Hide Photo] From Mike McHugh, ECSP Park Resource Technician, March 2023.
Peanuts Wall, up to Continental Crag.
[Hide Photo] Peanuts Wall, up to Continental Crag.
Peanuts Block.
[Hide Photo] Peanuts Block.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Raptor Closure (effective immediately)

Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail above the Crags Hotel Ruin and Continental Divide Overlook in order to protect golden eagles nesting on the south side of the canyon. The closure also includes the Continental Crag climbing area.

All activities, including rock climbing and hiking, are prohibited in these areas through July 15, 2020 or until further notice. This closure was authorized by Park Ranger D. Bergman.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.


This was from: cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…. Feb 14, 2020