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Spiney Ridge

Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd

Description

A great cliff between the 'new' Gym and Cactus Cliff. Offering some very good routes, mostly sport routes with some gear routes mixed in between. Mostly always in the sun during the day, which makes for enjoyable pocket pulling. Classics on the cliff include, The Hurricane, Cornerstone and (IMHO) Tractatus.

Getting There

From the new parking area by The Bank Camground, follow the road NW towards The Bank for ~100yds. Pickup the trail on the right side of the road that descends into the canyon. Follow this trail for ~5 minutes, crossing the canyon bottom, and passing below the 2150 Wall, to a terminus at the road that heads up above Cactus Cliff (this road was the former approach to Cactus). Turn left and follow the road uphill towards Cactus. Continue along the road as it banks hard right, passing the new toilet. Where the trail banks left, continue west, passing signage, along a well maintained trail that traverses Cactus Cliff. Follow the trail around the SE buttress of Cactus. Once you cross a prominent drainage you will arrive at Spiney Ridge.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 74
● Return of the Headhunters
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 159
● Access All Areas
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 270
● Damn Right I've Got the Moves
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 149
● Stone of Ignorance
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 216
● Cheers
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 224
● Tractatus
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 263
● 20th Century Man
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 105
● The New Philanthropists
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 0
● Cornerstand
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 154
● The Hurricane
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 63
● Down n' Dirty
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 56
● Short & Sweet
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 109
● Sugar and Spice
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 216
● Travis is Sole King
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 187
● Purple Toe Nails
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 287
● Toxxxic Entertainment
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 45
● Nalalator
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
● Applauding Eagle
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
● All That Was
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 58
● Tree Trimmer
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
● It's Froggy Out There
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
● Unknown 5.10
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 25
● Green Grenade
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 4
● Leaning Tower
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
● Fight Club
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
● The Hourglass
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 21
● The Rising
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
● Keystone
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 138
● Cornerstone
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
● Corrugation Corner
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 46
● Straight Rocket
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 27
● Quoting Yoda
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 56
● Weapons Of Mass Arousal
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 11
● De Gaulle Syndrome
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Return of the Headhunters
 74
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Access All Areas
 159
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Damn Right I've Got the Moves
 270
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Stone of Ignorance
 149
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Cheers
 216
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Tractatus
 224
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● 20th Century Man
 263
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
● The New Philanthropists
 105
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Cornerstand
 0
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● The Hurricane
 154
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Down n' Dirty
 63
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Short & Sweet
 56
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Sugar and Spice
 109
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Travis is Sole King
 216
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Purple Toe Nails
 187
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Toxxxic Entertainment
 287
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Nalalator
 45
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Applauding Eagle
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● All That Was
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Tree Trimmer
 58
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● It's Froggy Out There
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Unknown 5.10
 4
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Green Grenade
 25
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport
● Leaning Tower
 4
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
● Fight Club
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● The Hourglass
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● The Rising
 21
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
● Keystone
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Cornerstone
 138
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Corrugation Corner
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Straight Rocket
 46
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Quoting Yoda
 27
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
● Weapons Of Mass Arousal
 56
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● De Gaulle Syndrome
 11
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Spiney Ridge from the Banks Campground.
[Hide Photo] Spiney Ridge from the Banks Campground.
Comfy belay seat!
[Hide Photo] Comfy belay seat!
Spiney love.
[Hide Photo] Spiney love.
Spiney Ridge - left.<br> <br> Sunday Pockets is renamed 20th Century Man in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook.
[Hide Photo] Spiney Ridge - left. Sunday Pockets is renamed 20th Century Man in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook.
[Hide Photo] untitled
Spiney Ridge at moonrise, April, 2011.
[Hide Photo] Spiney Ridge at moonrise, April, 2011.
Looking down from the anchor on 20th Century Man.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the anchor on 20th Century Man.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Surlyman
[Hide Comment] Was climbing at Shelf Road on the weekend. A climber led Pully Mammoth and set it up on top rope for his girlfriend. She couldn't pull the roof so he top-roped it to clean it. He grabbed the jug to pull himself over the roof and a rock the size of a loaf of bread broke off in his hand and landed on the ground a few feet from his girlfriend.

Given the now missing jug I suspect this climb is now a tad harder than it used to be. Jun 22, 2005
Anonymous User
[Hide Comment] I was wondering if anyone knows if that project ever got got. I got up it but fell a few times 3 years ago or so and never went back. It was a super cool climb! May 3, 2011
Kenny P
Woodland Park
[Hide Comment] Perhaps someone out there can help me identify a route I climbed yesterday at Spiney Ridge. I recently moved to the area, and after three trips to Shelf, we decided to steer clear of the weekend crowds along Cactus - we selected Spiney (no one around!). It appears there are discrepancies between MP and the New Shelf Road guidebook.
I led a route to the right of #15 on MP's topo (Nalalator); it begins just to the LEFT of the small tree in the photo, in a small steep corner. The route ascends this corner (the first of two cruxes) escapes onto the ledge system, trends just slightly to the right, and continues all the way to the cliff top with another technical section mid-way. (The climbing near the anchors is also a bit difficult). This was a good route I'd give it "one-less star" than all the stars in whichever rating system you use! I estimate the overall difficulty around 11a/b????? Definitely not included in either guide. Oct 28, 2012
TheHut
[Hide Comment] I left a guidebook and a pair of belay gloves at the base of Tractates. When I returned for them (around dark), they were gone. If you kindly hauled them out for me, I'd love to get them back. Thank you! Dec 7, 2015