PRINT: Rock Climbing in Checkerboard Rock, Lumpy Ridge

Checkerboard Rock

Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge

Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 Details

From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.

Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.

Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.

Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

This aptly named rock face sits below Batman rock, and is easily reached via the Batman rock trail. This is a good spot to climb if you don't have a full day. The approach is approximately half that of Batman Rock, and none of the climbs to my knowledge are longer than two pitches. The rock itself is split broken vertically by a chimney in the middle and horizontally by a ledge that spans the entire length about 2/3 up. The climbing is less than vertical, and even the cracks have a slab feel.

Getting There

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. From the old Twin Owls parking lot, follow the approach trail for Batman Rock. After the trail starts to go up, start to look for a cairn on the left, which will take you to the left side of the base. Scramble down past the chimney, and back up the other side to the better routes. [When approaching the rock you will come upon the right side first.] Although the rock is 200' high, it is hard to see above the trees before you actually get there. ~40-50 minutes to approach.

Please check the closures before climbing.

Update: in 2019, Checkboard is closed for raptor nesting March 1 through July 31. These closures may be extended longer or rescinded at an earlier date depending on nesting activity. Click here for the Feb. 25, 2019 new release: https://www.nps.gov/romo/learn/news/temporary-closures-in-lumpy-ridge-area-to-protect-nesting-raptors-in-rocky-mountain-national-park.htm

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 15 ● Ziggie's Day Out Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 8 ● Ziggie's Brother Hank Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R 3 ● Three of a Perfect Pair Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 17 ● Checkerboard Crack Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R 16 ● Rainy Day Woman Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 10 ● Crystal Catch Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● Non-Alignment Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 1 ● Number 8 Beartrap Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 1 ● Icarus Trad, Sport

● Ziggie's Day Out

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches

● Ziggie's Brother Hank

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport

● Three of a Perfect Pair

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad

● Checkerboard Crack

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches

● Rainy Day Woman

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R Trad 2 pitches

● Crystal Catch

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches

● Non-Alignment

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Number 8 Beartrap

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Icarus

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Low down on P1. Photo by Ken Parker.

Route overlays for some routes on Checkerboard Rock.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

Update: in 2019, Checkboard is closed for raptor nesting March 1 through July 31. These closures may be extended longer or rescinded at an earlier date depending on nesting activity. Click here for the Feb. 25, 2019 new release: nps.gov/romo/learn/news/tem… Mar 13, 2019