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Routes in Lazy Squaw Spire

Lazy Squaw Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squawk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Elevation: 9,896 ft
GPS: 39.875, -105.423 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,481 total · 27/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

Hmmm. This is an intriguing, little, granite spire in the higher parts of Golden Gate Canyon SP. As you drive along the road past Panorama Point toward the Lazy Squaw Ranch, this little spire will call out to you. It is obvious from the road. This is different in shape than your classic Castle Rock type spire. It appears contorted and resemble a corkscrew. You will just wonder whether it has been climbed before. Well...it has. By one of the early climbers based upon the fixed hardware on the rock. Perhaps Layton? Rap 80 feet from fixed gear on top.

The GPS location is a bit of a guess based upon satellite imaging.

Apparently, the word is that this spire may have been first ascended by the great Layton Kor.

Getting There

From Golden, head North on CO Hwy 93, then West on Golden Gate Canyon Rd, perhaps 18 miles to the park, go to Kriley Pond, turn right and follow a switchbacked road to a gravel road. Follow the sign to Panorama Point. Continue briefly up this same gravel road. Crest a small saddle and find Lazy Squaw Ranch on your left. Park some place legal. The spire is obvious. Get a decent bearing since you will lose sight of the spire most of the time while in the forest. Hike up the hill (perhaps NW?, right angle from the road) 20 minutes or so. Definitely a micro-explore. You can go cross country from here to the 2nd buttress of Mt. Thorodin with perhaps an additional 30 minutes jaunt left. If you do this, follow the blunt crest back to the road and walk on the road to your car.

Parking

Get this figured out before you leave the car. Tickets will damper your mood if you don't.

Access through Harmsen Ranch (private) is not acceptable at this time. Please try to find legal access. Further directions from the Park may help elucidate this in the future.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lazy Squaw Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Lazy Squaw Spire
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lazy Squaw Spire
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
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Lazy Squaw Ranch is now called Harmsen Ranch. May 28, 2003
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
Don't park here...even if you're not blocking the gate. There are no signs that say "NO Parking" but you will still get a ticket like I just did, $50 fucking dollars. Park at Panorama Point and then make the long hike in. Mar 1, 2009
Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
The comments about tickets got me paranoid about parking, even in the obvious pullouts near the ranch.

The mouth of the Aspen Meadow Campground has plenty of parking.
If you follow the well marked and well described approach for The Grendel, you can hang a left a little before reaching The Grendel and sneak up on the back of the spire. That way you have legal parking and are on a good trail for most of the approach.

The bolts on this were not as modern as I had hoped. Especially the anchor! One rusty relic and one '80s bolt that unscrews in your hand. At least they are extended with an old, rusty chain. No way in hell I was rapping off that.... I backed it up with some cord through a thread. Bring some webbing in case my cord is eaten by rodents. Might be time to replace the anchor bolts??

First time I saw this thing, I knew I had to climb it.... The location is amazing. You can see Denver and Eldora from the top. The climbing was more fun and challenging than I expected. The main thing keeping this from being a classic is that every creature within a mile uses this thing as a toilet! It's hard not to let the bat guano, rodent and bird shit, and piss take away the enjoyment.... If I don't get the hantavirus, I might add another star. Sep 2, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
One thing to know is that right now climbing has come under scrutiny at GGCSP. Please discuss any new bolting, including replacement of old hardware, with the GGCSP rangers. Crystal Dreiling is the one with whom to discuss this. Sep 3, 2012
Rogerlarock
Nedsterdam, Colorado
Rogerlarock   Nedsterdam, Colorado
FINALLY!! After many years of looking(and one aborted mission) FINALLY got up on this thing!!

A VERY UNIQUE AND WONDERFUL ADVENTURE!!

All of the bolts need to be fixed. I'm working on it.

Oh, an alternative approach is to park at Aspen Meadows CG (outside the CG proper but off the main road) and hike up to the saddle between the spire and the Grendel. Casual 10/15 min WSW uphill from there. Jul 8, 2014
For you GPS geeks (like me). I've requested the location be updated (old one points to The Grendel), but here's some more waypoints that can be helpful:

Lazy Squaw Spire: 39.87551, -105.42329.
Parking Lot on Aspen Meadows road: 39.86817, -105.41700.
Trailhead ("Attention Climbers" sign): 39.86884, -105.41737.
Turn off to LSS from Grendel Trail: 39.87508, -105.42096.

You can just see the spire from the parking lot (but CANNOT see it for most of the approach). About 700ft elev. gain and a little less than a mile this way. Note that the turn off to LSS (from the Grendel Trail) is not marked, and the trail after this point is very faint to non-existent but pretty straightforward (assuming we got it right).

Fun outing - enjoy! Aug 24, 2015
Dakota from North Dakota   Golden, CO
Does anyone have info on the short roof crack? A friend and I climbed it (all gear) almost a year ago. It was pretty cool and clocked in just under 5.12, if I remember correctly. Crazy, little tower! Nov 28, 2017

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