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Routes in The Main Pinecliffe Crag

Frenzy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardman Jr. S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Longhaired Freaky People T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pica S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vanderslice, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Elevation: 8,023 ft
GPS: 39.931, -105.421 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,533 total, 34/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is the location of about 20 routes, mostly mentioned in the Front Range Crags guide by Peter Hubbel. This granite crag is located perhaps a quarter-mile East of the parking area, adjacent to the railroad tracks, near the town of Pinecliffe. The routes face various directions. Find trad, sport, and mixed climbs here.
Area Closed Details

Getting There

From CO Hwy 72 & CO Hwy 93, head West up Coal Creek Canyon (CO Hwy 72) to the town of Pinecliffe. Turn right. Find a legal parking spot. Walk along the railroad tracks East to the crag about 1/4 mile. Beware, hiking along the tracks may not be welcome. Climb.

L->R:

A. Mars Missle, 10-, 1p, bolts.
B. Hardman Junior, 11-, 1p, bolts.
C1. Knuckle Sandwich, 10, 1p, gear.
C2. Pica, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Don't Blame the Youth, 13, bolts, up above.
E. Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp, 11, 1p, bolts.
F. Long Haired Freaky People, 10, 1p, bolts & gear.

These people were responsible for the bolts: Mark Pell (aka Eddie Pain), Gus Glitch, Alvino Pon, Hank Caylor, Ryan Mills, Evd, Z. Pomtier.

There are also three routes at the base.

G. Vampire, 11.
H. Why Not?, 8.
I. Unknown name, 5.9.

7 Total Climbs

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So sorry to hear that access has become an issue at a place that was one of my favorite hideaways in the Denver/Boulder area. I first started bouldering and exploring alone out there at crags all along the tracks in the mid-'80s, and I climbed there often in the 1990s with Vino, Ryan, Eric, Hank, Gus, and Butch, among others. We kept the place immaculately clean, and we always maintained a low profile while climbing and hanging out. Once when it was too cold and snowy to climb, Alvino Pon and I spent an entire day removing unsightly grafitti from the lower rocks along the river that had been painted by Denver gangstaz. One thing about this spot - you cannot avoid being seen by folks from across the river or up the road, unless the only climbs you do are on the hidden right (east) side of the main rock where there is sadly not much to choose from. I hope someday this access situation improves, but I'll always be thankful for all the great times I had out there with my friends. Mar 1, 2013
evd
evd  
To the false claimers of first ascents at Pinecliffe. The bolted routes on the main cliff were done by myself and friends in the early to mid nineties. They are from left to right...Mars Missle(10a), Hardman Junior (11a), Pica (12a), Don't Blame the Youth (13), Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp (11), Long Haired Freaky People (10). Back then we also climbed the trad routes. These people were responsible for the bolts: Eddie Pain, Gus Glitch, Alvino Pon, Hank Caylor, Ryan Mills, Evd, Z. Pomtier. There are also three routes at the base...Vampire (11), Why Not?(8), and a 5.9 to the right up a black streak I can't remember the name of.
To my knowledge the private land ends west of the cliff. Sep 28, 2009
I've heard that the owner's big concern is about a recent increase in trash; broken glass, etc. Sep 6, 2008
Apparently the land is privately owned and was posted recently. The land owner does not live in the area and may be concerned about liability, but I don't know any more than that. Also, the community of Pinecliff owns some of the areas around the tracks & I'm not sure what their rules are. Probably a good idea to keep things low key if you go thru those areas though. Aug 19, 2008
Gary Hann
Coal Creek Canyon,Colorado
Gary Hann   Coal Creek Canyon,Colorado
I went to Pinecliff today 19 Aug 08 and discovered the "No Trespassing" signs. One on a tree in front of the Waterfall Route and another up top on a tree near Frenzy along with a second sign that states "No Climbing Thank You". I have been bouldering here for at least 15 years and hiking for at least 22 years, can they really close this area? Has anybody found out what is going on? Aug 19, 2008
cdg
cdg  
Brent,the signs were on the north side of the river down low in the woods by the old "fishing trail". These signs would make Frenzy and the sport routes up high off limits. I again have been climbing off and on here for quite a few years and no problems. Just wanted to know of new ownership of the area or is it the railroad or what? I can not find any info in Gilpin county. Thanks, cdg. May 19, 2008
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
cdg- Where exactly did you see the no trespassing signs? Along the railroad tracks on the way in? May 12, 2008
cdg
cdg  
I went here yesterday 4/20/08 and there are no trespassing signs all over the place. I live just up the road and have climbed here for 15 years. Have not been in maybe 2 years. Does anyone know the story? Thanks. Apr 21, 2008

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