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The Arena (aka Contender Wall) Rock Climbing
Routes in The Arena (aka Contender Wall)
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Contender Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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First Round S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poor-Nucopia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Standing Eight Count S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sucker Punch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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40.0024, -105.4102 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 11,008 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Kreighton Bieger on Mar 22, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - updated
Details
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is a nice "after work" or "lunchtime" crag, as it's not too far up the Canyon, has a short approach, and all of the routes are short. Rossiter calls this crag 'The Arena' in his Boulder Canyon book, and Rolofson calls it 'Contender Wall' in the Sport Climbers' Guide.
There are five routes, from left to right, that go at:
A. Sucker Punch, 11+, 1p, 20', bolts.
B. Standing Eight Count, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
CD. Contender Direct, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Contender?, 12a, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
ED. Poor-Nucopia, 12, 1p, 45', gear & bolts.
F. First Round, 10, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
All are bolted and on vertical granite with crimpy, incut holds. No slab climbing here!
There are five routes, from left to right, that go at:
A. Sucker Punch, 11+, 1p, 20', bolts.
B. Standing Eight Count, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
CD. Contender Direct, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Contender?, 12a, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
ED. Poor-Nucopia, 12, 1p, 45', gear & bolts.
F. First Round, 10, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
All are bolted and on vertical granite with crimpy, incut holds. No slab climbing here!
Getting There
As per Rolofson: Drive up the Canyon 6.3 miles (I think he says 6.2) from the intersection of Canyon and Arapahoe, and pass Eagle Rock on your left. Immediately after passing Eagle Rock, the other side of the road is a steep, rocky hillside that faces south. Up the hillside there is a small but obvious wall with orange lichen and a dark grey water streak on it. This is the Arena/Contender Wall.
Park immediately on the right, or continue around the bend and find a small pullout on the right, and walk back. Cob Rock and Bitty Buttress are just beyond.
Scramble through loose talus and past many tiny cacti, and find an incipient trail that approaches the crag from climber's right. Follow your nose and cut back to the left, scramble onto a ledge, and you will be at the bottom of the crag. The base is steep and sloping, but a few gear placements abound for belayers. Soak up the sun and start pullin!
Park immediately on the right, or continue around the bend and find a small pullout on the right, and walk back. Cob Rock and Bitty Buttress are just beyond.
Scramble through loose talus and past many tiny cacti, and find an incipient trail that approaches the crag from climber's right. Follow your nose and cut back to the left, scramble onto a ledge, and you will be at the bottom of the crag. The base is steep and sloping, but a few gear placements abound for belayers. Soak up the sun and start pullin!
Sun Angles Details:
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