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Babyhorn

Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Fences indicating no climbing? DetailsDrop down

Description

Babyhorn is a tiny Flatiron just past Square Rock and before Dinosaur/Der Zerkle. This is a great introduction to climbing for the new climber/new child climber. This has perhaps a total of 30 feet of climbing that is not intimidating, even to a 5 year old. This was where I took my then 5 year old and then later, my 3 1/2 year old, for their 1st true "rock climbs."

The East slab has a fun, 2 star, 4th class route, the NE face has a 5.4 route, the West rib has a 5.7 route & a 5.6 arete variation.

The SW face at least 6 lines/problems. The obvious 5.9 slab is described in R. Rossiter's terrific Boulder Climbs North. To its left is a 5.10 variation. To its right (moving R to L) are 5.8 line on a minor arete, a 5.8 in a shallow dihedral, a 5.11-? boulder problem, and a 5.10 boulder problem with a painful, small L hand 2-finger pocket.

There is a single bolt with a SMC hanger on top but also another hole with a sheath, but no bolt. It has been updated. It is best to belay from above.

Getting There

Go to Boulder, get off US 36 at Table Mesa (redundant?) and go west, go past CO 93, up the hill, bear right, and follow this up to NCAR (National Center for Atmospheric Research). Park. Hike west, go onto the wooded mesa via the Robert Orr Trail, follow signs to the Mesa trail, pass a big water tank, continue west to gain the Mallory Cave Trail. Beware of poison ivy along the edges of the trail. Go past Square Rock, and you are there. Perhaps 1 mile, maybe less.

Note, sadly there are now fences indicating people are not allowed onto Babyhorn, maybe with the exception of the East Face route?

Routes from Left to Right

4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 22
East Face/Babyhorn
TR
V3 6A
 2
Gemini
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
NE Face
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
South Face
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 17
West Arete
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V-easy 3
 9
West Face [Babyhorn]
TR, Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
West Face Right
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face/Babyhorn
 22
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b TR
Gemini
 2
V3 6A Boulder
NE Face
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
South Face
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
West Arete
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
West Face [Babyhorn]
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V-easy 3 TR, Boulder
West Face Right
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

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Babyhorn.
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] The half pulled out and bent anchor bolt has been replaced with a stainless steel Fixe bolt for your climbing pleasure. This was done legally through the bolt replacement application processes with the OSMP. Aug 13, 2007
Simon Testa
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Babyhorn is a fun little rock. West Arete seemed more like 5.5. Scrambled up West Arete and down East Face. Single bolt on top of rock. Fun place to set up a top rope for kids. Watch for poison ivy at the base of West Arete. Jun 15, 2019