PRINT: Rock Climbing in Five and Dime Wall, Denver South

Five and Dime Wall

Colorado > Denver South > Castlewood Canyon SP

Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates Details

Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.

Per Garrett Garner-Wells:

the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:

The following climbing route closures are currently in place:

- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.

As of 2020:

There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.

As of June, 2017:

The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.

As of March 7, 2012:

Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2022 Details

Five and Dime is closed for raptor nesting from March 1 - July 31. This closure is expected to occur annually for a pair of nesting eagles. If you have any questions you can email dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or call the park at 303-688-5242 to confirm any of this information.

Description

This wall is just above the Five and Dime Boulders. There are probably less than ten routes on the entire wall, but some are quite fun. There are mostly TRs and a few can be done trad-style. Most routes are fairly short. There is good sun in the morning until the late afternoon. I've noticed barbed wire very close to the top of the wall along the rim. I assume it is some sort of park boundary. So be careful.

Getting There

This wall can be reached by parking at Homestead Trail at the north end of the park. The wall can be seen above the Five and Dime Boulders to the west. Hike up the hill to the base of the wall (west rim).

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 2 ● Why Ask Why? TR
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 3 ● Skin Flint TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 2 ● Quarantine Corner Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 2 ● Corona Crack Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 2 ● BC Winger Trad, TR

● Why Ask Why?

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR

● Skin Flint

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR

● Quarantine Corner

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR

● Corona Crack

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR

● BC Winger

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Corona Crack climbs the pictured offwidth.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Mottinger

Hanson's Guidebook states that this wall is actually north of the state park boundary, although climbing here has never been a problem. I try to keep a low profile and don't trash the place so there won't be any problems in the future. Feb 20, 2002