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Monitor Rock

Colorado > Independence Pass

Description

Monitor is nice granite rock with virtually no approach and a good West face where most of the climbing can be found. Certainly by now there are close to 60 routes to choose from, sport and trad. Many are one pitch, some are several. While situated in an alpine setting, the granite is still excellent and the climbing interesting. Worth a day shot if you are heading to Independence Pass for several days. Importantly, since Monitor Rock is at lower elevation than Independence Pass, it is possible to extend the climbing season by a month or so. To keep things organized, the numbering of routes will start on the right and proceed uphill with increasing number. By this scheme, where the approach trail meets the rock, the sport route "Rad Lad" will be # 31. Presently, the only published data that I have found is Lance Hadfield's mini-guide in Rock & Ice (#74, August 1996, pp 102-105), and I will follow his numbering as much as possible allowing for new routes where this seems obvious. You will find routes from 5.7 trad to moderate 5.12 sport with numerous 5.10 and 5.11 to be had. The sun exposure is usually excellent.

The subareas:

Clairabell Mine Wall Area - East of Monitor.

1. Butt Wall.
2. Bird's Nest.
3. Trailhead Wall.
3b. Nose Wall (above the trailhead).
4. Ironclad Wall.
5. Boulder Wall.
6. Ironside Wall.
above 6. Summit Dome (above Ironside Wall).
7. Endless Wall.
8. Forever Young.
9. Tombstone.

Below Monitor Rock

Getting There

From most points East you will be taking Colo 82 (off US 24 and between Leadville and Buena Vista) West past Twin Lakes and the reservoir. Several miles further you will come the Mount Elbert Lodge and B&B which can offer great lodgings for those in need and with the foresight to reserve a room. Monitor Rock is several hundred feet West of the lodge and on the right. Parking is just off the shoulder. For those in need, there is a great German restaurant in Twin Lakes (now called Twin Lakes Inn) that serves loads of imported German beers and terrific bratwurst.

More Info

Eds. In addition to Lance Hadfield's Rock & Ice mini-guide (#74, August 1996, pp 102-105), there is a guidebook, Independence Pass Rock II $32.99, on the Aspen area climbs by Tom Perkins which includes Monitor Rock. It is available in the bookstore in Leadville. There was a paper guide published through the Aspen Climibing Guides. Aspenclimbingguides.com may also provide more information.

Miscellaneous

Eds. If you are coming from the Leadville side & need coffee, bakery goods, or wireless internet, the Provin' Grounds Coffee Shop (508 Main St.) may have what you need.

The bookstore just north has guidebooks to the area & the Arkansas Valley.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

We saw this deer dying the week before, next time I'll call a ranger.
[Hide Photo] We saw this deer dying the week before, next time I'll call a ranger.
Monitor Rock in the fall.
[Hide Photo] Monitor Rock in the fall.
A sunny view of the Monitor from the west.
[Hide Photo] A sunny view of the Monitor from the west.
Monitor.
[Hide Photo] Monitor.
Monitor Rock at sunset.
[Hide Photo] Monitor Rock at sunset.
We made it to the top.
[Hide Photo] We made it to the top.
Josh Alford laughing his way up the left 5.7 crack just below the Summit Dome. This crack and the fun 5.7 crack just to the right are fun extensions to the Nose.
[Hide Photo] Josh Alford laughing his way up the left 5.7 crack just below the Summit Dome. This crack and the fun 5.7 crack just to the right are fun extensions to the Nose.
This is an attempt at giving general locations for some of the separate areas of Monitor Rock.  Perhaps it may help.
[Hide Photo] This is an attempt at giving general locations for some of the separate areas of Monitor Rock. Perhaps it may help.
East parking lot is officially in a avalanche run-out zone.
[Hide Photo] East parking lot is officially in a avalanche run-out zone.
Taken from the West parking area
[Hide Photo] Taken from the West parking area
Bear posting up on the approach.
[Hide Photo] Bear posting up on the approach.
Rasta Ledge.
[Hide Photo] Rasta Ledge.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] IMHO a worthy rock for sport climbing. The rock is solid and finger friendly. Aspen Climbing Guides LLC publishes a 1-page guide which has all the current routes listed. Apr 8, 2002
[Hide Comment] Great area, with something for everyone - sport, trad, beginners, etc. Don't forget to do the Butt Wall (no routes described here) - around the right prow. There are great warm-ups there or routes for beginning leaders. Most of them have a 2nd trad pitch, though the first pitches are all sport. Easy to get to & all routes are well bolted! Jul 1, 2002
Ben Bruestle
Pueblo, CO
[Hide Comment] Spotted a few mountain goats on the southeast face a couple weeks ago showing the humans how it's done. May 3, 2006
[Hide Comment] Found: watch at the base of the Nose. Drop me an email if it's yours. jpeterson@western.edu Jul 11, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] Cool cliff with a ton of sport climbing! Wish the rain hadn't been so persistent and the fishing so good. I would have liked to do more climbs. Love the rock texture and the easy approach. Jun 30, 2009
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
[Hide Comment] What are the routes on the overhanging wall? About 500 ft to the left of Squid Kid. A lot of chalk and a bulge at the top? Jun 27, 2010
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
[Hide Comment] The new edition of the Stewart Green Colorado guide includes Monitor Rock. Oct 16, 2010
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] With the help of multiple friends, since 2006, we've established 32 new pitches on MONITOR ROCK so far. Notably, six new 3-pitch routes have been added to the already plethora of climbs. Nearly all new pitches require some natural gear placements... I will soon be posting some of the latest works.... on The FY Wall! Sep 12, 2012
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] Thanks for all the hard work, great to see so many new climbs! Sep 12, 2012
[Hide Comment] New route info: Rimpelstiltskin is the bolted face route located on the large, left-facing dihedral between Iron Side Wall and Endless Wall; left of Climax and right of Dihedral Crack. FA: Nicole Rimpel, Chris Martinez, Dean Morgan. 11a/b if you stay on the face. 13 bolts, chain anchors, 105 feet. Apr 28, 2014
Don Nguyen
Ellensburg, WA
[Hide Comment] Lost a pair of glacier goggles and all my cards on a fall over the Trooper Traverse. If you see anything, please turn it into Leadville Outdoors shop. Thanks. Sep 8, 2014
Michael Arriola
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] Any camping options nearby? Sep 26, 2014
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Yes, there are a few USFS campgrounds close by. Twin Peaks and Parry Peak are east of Monitor and within a few miles. Sep 29, 2014
Bruce H
Minturn, CO
[Hide Comment] I found a Red Chili Size 39 Right Shoe like new on the east side trail. Msg me if it is yours. Jun 28, 2016
Thomas Fagan
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] Found a white Mammut helmet at the trailhead wall on 7/10/16. Let me know if it's yours. Jul 11, 2016
D Scott Clark
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] Administrators, please add numbers to the beginning of each area name so they can be viewed in order. For example

1. Butt Wall.
2. Bird's Nest.
3. Trailhead Wall.
3b. Nose Wall (above the trailhead).
4. Ironclad Wall.
5. Boulder Wall.
6. Ironside Wall.
6b. Summit Dome (above Ironside Wall).
7. Endless Wall.
8. Forever Young.
9. Tombstone. Jun 12, 2017
Cody Goldberg
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Unfortunately, the German restaurant listed in the Getting There section is now the Twin Lakes Inn. They serve food and beer aber es gibt nur ein deutches Bier. Schade.... Jul 8, 2017
[Hide Comment] When parking at Monitor Rock, please tread lightly and leave no trace. The parking lot is owned by a private party, and they have considered revoking parking access there due to blatant and regular disrespect for their property. If you see someone taking a crap, dumping trash, or tromping through what's clearly labeled as "private property", please call them out. Many of these offenders are most likely tourist and not climbers. If you see something, say something. Sep 19, 2018
[Hide Comment] There is a new Indy Pass guidebook from Wolverine Publishing. I think the Monitor section is well laid out and should make finding routes easier. Jun 16, 2023