Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

The bouldering near/on Graduation Boulder is the best in North Cheyenne Canyon. The approach is 3 seconds, so it is convenient. It is usually climbable all-year around (unless it just snowed, of course). The rock is solid, with dozens of problems of varying difficulty. On Graduation Boulder, the south, creek-facing side has several good highballs, the north, road-facing side has great warm-ups, and the west overhang sports the best problem on the boulder, Graduation (V1), a fun, jugfest. The boulder has been traversed at a hard grade (I've heard V10?). Post-Graduation Boulder isn't nearly as good, but also has some good problems, namely River Rumble (V4), a highball.

Climbers have been bouldering here for decades. Several years ago I thought I knew every problem on this boulder, until old-timer Harvey Carter showed me about twenty new problems and variations I'd never seen before. In many cases, these problems were done long ago, statically, and without climbing shoes or chalk. The photos only show the most obvious lines, so keep in mind that there are literally dozens of other problems on this boulder.

GRADUATION BOULDER PROBLEMS:

1. GRADUATION TRAVERSE - travese the main face and finish up the main problem 2. CORNER PROBLEM - start on the slopers and go straight up on crimps 3. GRADUATION - the classic line, ascend the overhang using jugs and jams 4. ARETE PROBLEM - start as low as possible and climb the arching arete 5. FACE PROBLEM - start on the arete but go up the face, avoiding the arete 6. FACE PROBLEM - follow hard crimps up the face 7. FACE PROBLEM - more hard crimps up the face 8. RAMP - ascend the prominent rail cutting across the face 9. CREEK WALL - from good holds at the base of the rail, move big to a slopey topout, highball 10. SHORT OVERHANG - start at chest height and use fun holds to surmount the short overhang

POST-GRADUATION BOULDER PROBLEMS (Problems face the trail):

1. TOUGH GUY - the full right-to-left traverse

2. RIVER RUMBLE - climbs the main, north-facing overhang to the highball slab above

Getting There

From the park entrance, drive 0.7 miles and pullout on either side of the road. Park near a large, obvious boulder (Graduation Boulder) on the south (left) side of the road. If you miss this boulder, get an eye transplant.

Post-Graduation Boulder is about 40 feet directly uphill from Graduation Boulder, on the trail.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Graduation Boulder and Post-Graduation B

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
When the crack running up the west side of the rock flattens out you can throw to a nice pincher on the southern arrete. From there it's whatever you can find. I'd like to hear if anyone can come up with something. Mar 31, 2002
Luke  
This is probably one of the best boulders in the springs for quality and quanity of problems on a single boulder. The problems on the creek side are a little bit more committing and harder but are definately three star quality. Aug 2, 2002
Oh, people come up with quite a bit, actually. I think there are probably hundreds of eliminates on the western bit o' this boulder. If it didn't bore me so much, I could spend a lifetime there and never climb something twice. And it IS a sweet boulder. Aug 22, 2002
here's a link to a guide to bouldering in the canyon...

worldzone.net/sports/waygoo… Feb 14, 2003
Found four more variations the other day ;) Aug 8, 2003
chris tregge
Beersconsin
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
This is a great boulder and an excellent way to kill a couple hours. The obvious lines are quite do-able and have reasonably safe landings without a pad. Jul 30, 2007
phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
For a guide to the basic problems, follow this link.

mtnchalet.com/articles_clim…

Feel free to comment on the routes, names, and gradings.

Thanks,
Phil @ Mountain Chalet. Mar 21, 2008
David Hertel
Haines, Alaska
David Hertel   Haines, Alaska
Absolutely one of my favorite spots to chill out and climb. I'm still woundering what that problem is called Over the River. I posted a pic of it. Personally I would call it a classic. I never can have enough fun with those 2 finger crimps on either side! Lovin' every bit of it, man! Oct 23, 2008
David Hertel
Haines, Alaska
David Hertel   Haines, Alaska
There are 2 variations of "Creek Wall".

The first (easier) one is to move to the slopes and throw right to the overhanging sidepull... go straight up from there and top out using the ledges all the way up.

Second (V5-6) same start, but instead of throwing right from the slopes, get a hold of the 2 finger pocket on the left. Top out over the slopey highball end directly overhead. Jan 14, 2010

 
I was wondering if anyone knows if the traverse has been done left to right? Jun 3, 2010
England   ?
Andrew - Yes, the traverse has been done many times over (left, right, barefoot, etc...), and before you were born.
On another note: I've been climbing this boulder for many years now, and this year someone feels the need to tick mark everything with chalk. It's starting to look pretty trashy, also after it rains your tick marks turn into mushy slick spots-NOT cool. Jun 27, 2010
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
If tick marks bother you, brush them off. If you don't bring a brush bouldering, then (I hate to break it to you) you are a gumbie. Oct 28, 2010
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
"If you don't bring a brush bouldering, then (I hate to break it to you) you are a gumbie."
I've never seen or heard of John Gill using a brush while bouldering (or tick marks for that matter). So are you saying John Gill was a gumbie? Oct 28, 2010
Step hen
Fort Collins, CO
Step hen   Fort Collins, CO
Traverse done barefoot? Sure, England. Right.... May 1, 2011