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Sheep Mountain Rock

Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Devil's Gulch &… > Cow Creek Canyon / Mc…
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Description

Sheep Mountain Rock is the long south-facing cliff band (350 feet high by 1,500 feet long) located on the north side of the valley about 2 miles from the trailhead, where its low-angled eastern flank can be seen. With an approach longer than any at nearby Lumpy Ridge, routes no more than 4 pitches long, and containing only 10 routes, it's not exactly a hot climbing destination. But its uniqueness, solitude, and two classic routes (Double Fantasy - 5.10a and Glimmerton Corner - 5.10b) make the hike in worthwhile, especially if you're looking for a break from Lumpy.

The best descent for all routes is a gully to the west, and although an eastern descent isn't mentioned and I haven't tried it, it may be feasible for routes closer to that side.

Getting There

There's not exactly a standard approach as there's no trail from the main trail to the rock - not even a faint "climber's trail." But to start with, head west from McGraw Ranch along the Cow Creek Trail as if you're heading to Bridalveil Falls. When the rock is in full view, look around for whatever looks like the best way up. Guidebooks suggest to start heading up at either the Gem Lake junction or just beyond the trail to Rabbit Ears campground. Whether you choose one of these or find a better way, you'll be hiking uphill farther than you would to Sundance - without the benefit of a trail.

L->R:

A. Double Fantasy, 10-, 3p, 320', gear.
B. Wuthering Heights, 9 R, 3p, gear.
C. Pennystone Crag, 9+, 3p, gear.
DC. Lamb's Skin, 8, 3p, gear.
E. Gimmerton Corner, 10, 3p, 350', gear.
F? One of these days, Felix, 10+, 4p, gear.
G? Stone Pillar, 10, 3p, gear.
H. Himmelfahrt, 10, 4p, gear.
I. Thrushcross Grange, 7, 2-3p, gear.
J. High Road, 0, 2-3p, gear.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
● Double Fantasy
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
● Lamb Skin
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
● Gimmerton Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
● One of these days, Felix
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Double Fantasy
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Lamb Skin
 2
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
● Gimmerton Corner
 8
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
● One of these days, Felix
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Slightly more detailed photo. Look carefully at photos, since it is a bit confusing once you are at the base of the rock to determine the line you want.
[Hide Photo] Slightly more detailed photo. Look carefully at photos, since it is a bit confusing once you are at the base of the rock to determine the line you want.
Sheep Mountain Rock.
[Hide Photo] Sheep Mountain Rock.
Nice foliage to view while not climbing.
[Hide Photo] Nice foliage to view while not climbing.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luke Clarke
Golden
[Hide Comment] Sheep Mountain Rock is high quality rock bound to see more traffic once the Park Service moves the Lumpy parking, making a two-mile approach closer to the norm. Rossiter's "The Crag Areas" guide and [Gillett's] "Estes Park Valley" guide both describe two "climber trails." One is supposed to be near the Rabbit Ears campground cutoff (which is well marked) one presumable three-tenths of a mile west of that cutoff. My partner and I found neither. The trail lines we found took us too far west on ascent. Don't bother trying to find them unless you're with someone who knows where they are. Walk in 1.5 miles, turn right and slog north up the sloped toward the center of the cliff. That said, this crag is great quality, well worth the two-mile approach. Did it on a warm day today, but I would recommend it for a cool fall day or mild winter day. The approach would warm you while the sun heats the broad, south-facing rock. Parking may become an issue. The Park Service allows 17 cars on the west side of the road, and it's a popular trail for tourists. Aug 7, 2004