Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger
7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the
Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory.
Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas. The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec… (click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19,
Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee -
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at
fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
From Boulder access Avalon just past Boulder Falls. Guardrail at Boulder Falls ends, then another starts in about _ mile. There is a parking area at the end of that guardrail on the left. Park there and hike back down on the creek side of the guardrail. If you look toward the creek, you'll see several ropes crossing a significant rapid about 20 feet over the creek. That's not it. Keep going till you see a green rope close to the creek in a bushy slow moving section a little way farther. Wade across the creek there. Head straight up through the trees veering left as you go up. You should be able to make out a trail. You'll come to some rocks with some bolted routes. That's Watermark. Turn left (downhill) and wind around the underside of Watermark veering right. Pass a big tree and enter a boulder field. Head straight up that. This is Avalon. The First Tier is directly to your left as you head up. The Second Tier is just beyond the top of the boulder field. Jul 9, 2004
Boulder, CO
P.S. The water is low enough that it is pretty easy to cross. Take your chances. Jul 22, 2004
Denver, CO
Boulder, CO
I haven't been up there in a while, so I don't know if the water is low enough to wade. The usual wading spot is about 100' downstream from the tyrolean, just left of a steep rock wall on the far side. Jul 28, 2006
Boulder, CO
Thanks to Kevin Currigan for donating the new rope, and to Bruno Haché for donating the hardware, and for his technical skill in setting up the tyrolean. Jun 21, 2007
Boulder, Colorado
Pebby Johns Jul 3, 2007
Boulder CO
Sprezzatura, Someday
I've been at Vampire twice in the last month, and 3 parties have arrived thinking they were at Avalon. Jun 9, 2017
Nederland, CO
Huge thanks to Rock and Resole for donating a 600' spool of static line to the effort. Please tell them thanks next time you stop in, and thanks to everyone that donated last year to help with other costs (webbing, hardware, etc)! May 10, 2018
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
Colorado
New York
When you cross the correct Tyrolean, you’ll almost immediately be at the First Tier. You hardly have to go up the talus at all to get to it. If you’ve walked far enough from the creek that you couldn’t easily underhand toss a rock into it, you’ve gone up too far (or are at the wrong crag). A couple older regulars there yesterday told us that >50% of the people they see at Vampire Rock are confused newcomers trying to get to Avalon. Sep 24, 2020