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The Wicked Cave

Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park

Description

The Wicked Cave is home to many of Rifle's longest, hardest routes and is an impressive spectacle in and of itself. The cave proper, while way too chossy to climb, forms an immense roofy bowl that is easily 70+ feet from the back to the lip and often runs with water or drips with giant icicles.

Most of the routes are on the super-steep wall right of the cave, which hosts Rifle's first 5.14, Kurt Smith's Slice of Life, now 13d with kneebar technology. There are a couple of routes left of the cave as well, and a mini-cave with three difficult routes (5.13-5.13+) up and left on a dusty bench.

This cave can be pretty muggy and buggy in the summer, as it is very close to a marshy mosquito breeding ground and doesn't see much breeze action. Arm yourself and your belayer with bug juice if you're serious about climbing here, otherwise wait until the fall when conditions are a bit better (a hint: the Project Wall is a much better place for summer climbing because it sees way less sun, is in the deepest, narrowest part of the canyon and is generally breezy).

While the bottom of the wall is somewhat scaly and occasionally wet, the top 2/3 is made up of bomber tan stone with varied and interesting features. Endurance is the name of the game on these routes, all of which are hard all the way to the anchors.

Getting There

The Wicked Cave is just downstream from the Arsenal on the same side of the Canyon, and is just across the road from the Fluff Boy (Sno-Cone Cave) parking area.

Drive about a mile into the canyon and park on the right as for Fluff Boy (use the pull-out right on the road instead of parking in the picnic area).

Cross the road and follow a narrow but well-defined trail through the grass to the wall right of the cave. The first route you'll encounter is Shades (12d), a seldom, if ever climbed line up the blocky wall behind a tree.

Routes from Left to Right

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 2
The Feast (aka Fat Lady)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 15
Deity
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 1
Get Shorty
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 2
Planet X
Sport
5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b
 1
Bad Girls Club
Sport
5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 9
Zulu
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 8
Magnetar
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
Slice of Life
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 8
Tombraider
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 11
Cryptic Egyptian
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Quick Tick Egyptian
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Shades
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
Sexy Beast
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Entrance Exam
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Skyline Fire Dance
Sport 4 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
F. U. C. K.
Sport 2 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Hippy Speedball
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Feast (aka Fat Lady)
 2
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Deity
 15
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Get Shorty
 1
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Planet X
 2
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Bad Girls Club
 1
5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b Sport
Zulu
 9
5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Magnetar
 8
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Slice of Life
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Tombraider
 8
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Cryptic Egyptian
 11
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Quick Tick Egyptian
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Shades
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Sexy Beast
 20
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Entrance Exam
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Skyline Fire Dance
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
F. U. C. K.
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Hippy Speedball
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ian Dory on Zulu.
[Hide Photo] Ian Dory on Zulu.