Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details


Excellent bouldering is to be found in Garden of the Gods. Some in the spotlight of the many visitors and some semi secluded. All of the bouldering is easily accessible.

Getting There

I have highlighted three primary areas and I am sure that many other options are available.

Snakepit Boulders: To find these boulders park at the Kindergarten Rock parking area and hike down a trail on the east side of the loop road down into the valley. The boulders will be on the left side of the trail. The primary boulder is really fine climbing with really nice features and safe landings. The down climb is on the north side of the boulder.

Twin Spires Area: Park at the north parking area and walk down the cement path between the North and South Gateway Rocks. The Twin Spires has some very nice traversing problems but the area is generally crawling with tourists. I have even been there when a wedding was going on.

The Blowouts: Park at the north parking area and find your way to the northwest side of North Gateway Rock near the base of Men At Work. This might be a good retreat when you have had enough of the tourists asking you questions at the Twin Spires.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

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Two other really good bouldering areas in the garden:

1. Just to the south of Silver Spoon on South Gateway rock is a gully/canyon that has some really interesting problems. Be careful with how you fall if you are bouldering because of the walls on both sides present a hazard. This is also a great place to go in the summer beacuse it stays cool and dry. 2. Between south gategay rock and grey rock is a spine of white rock that has some of the best boudlering in the garden. It looks out almost directly over the road into the garden and is almost always tourist free. To get there go thought the gully listed above and climb up and out its south end. Continue around south gateway rock to the spine of white rock. The cool part about it is that for its small size it is has a million problems on it and you can make them as hard or as easy as you want due to the numberous crack, holds and traverses. The bad part about it is that the landing area is a little sloped and covered in gravel but not bad at all if you have a spotter. Nov 26, 2001
Also, don't forget about Master of Puppets (V8), a Garden classic, though little known. From the main parking lot, cross the road and follow one of several faint trails up the hillside until you find the main boulder (it'll be obvious when you get close). It has a couple of fun, low roof problems. Master of Puppets starts on underclings on the left side of the overhang and does some powerful, beta-intensive moves out right and up. Great quality rock on this boulder. A bit farther up the hill, some bouldering can be done, but nothing that stands out. Apr 20, 2002
Shane Zentner
Shane Zentner   Colorado
A good way to get to 'The Blowouts' is to walk north along the base of North Gateway Rock starting from Finger Ramp. There appears to be somewhat of a trail here. Along the way one will see chalk marks that indicate bouldering/climbing. Keep going. You will see the blowouts shortly. Apr 23, 2002
here's a link to a rough guide to garden of the gods bouldering...… Feb 14, 2003