GPS: 40.292, -105.67 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 28,858 total · 130/month
Shared By: Peter Holcombe on Jun 4, 2002 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Zowie is the towering fin of rock seen while approaching/descending from Sharkstooth. It is an impressive sight. It's very similar looking to the Petit Grepon, just smaller. It is a pinnacle eroded from Otis Peak.

Getting There

Park at Glacier Gorge Junction one mile before the Bear Lake parking lot. Take the trail to Alberta Falls, and keep going. Hike past The Loch for a mile, cross a footbridge and go right heading up towards Andrews Glacier. Once you start to leave the trees, start looking to the right and you'll see the tower. Wham is the other tower to the right. Addendum: It's now ~4 miles.

Descent

There appear to be at least 2 descents.

A. From the top, there is at least one rappel route down. From the northeast end of the top, there is a 2 bolt ~90' rappel. (~80' reaches a ledge with an exposed scramble north to the next anchor.) Note, this rappel can be challenging to pull, so consider using one rope. The second rappel off a 2 bolt anchor goes down a gully going north to the saddle. From there, snake your way down exposed 3rd class, traverse skier's right into a chimney, continue snaking down past a notch, and go to a pair of brown, Metolius rap hangers near the bottom of the descent. Rappel ~80' over a wet chimney.

B. Per John Peterson: The first rap is down the east side (right over the 5.8+ crack). Take a grassy ledge north (right as you face the summit) to an anchor that leads to the notch behind Zowie. This is hard to see from above. Both of these rap stations have good anchors. Follow the gully down until you hit a drop off near the bottom and rap one last time. It looked possible to downclimb, but it would be very exposed. This rap anchor wasn't as good as the other two.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Zowie

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
One for the Red Team
Trad, Alpine
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 110
South Face
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 6
Red Face Magic
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Magic in the Middle
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
One for the Red Team
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
South Face
 110
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Red Face Magic
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Magic in the Middle
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
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