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The Gym

Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd

Description

Situated just North of the big hairpin and tad up the road, The Gym holds some of Shelf Roads most brilliant (and difficult) climbs. The wall is East facing and gets sun, therefore, only part of the day. Climbing at the Gym reminds me of Sinks Canyon or Ten sleep, with somewhat fewer pockets. The newer lines still retain sharp edges and spines, but for most routes these have been eroded away. Most routes can be done with a 50 meter rope, although a 60 meter is preferred overall. The occasional two pitch routes are readily done with the same equipment. For its overall climbing value, I think The Gym is the best crag at Shelf, with almost none of the discontinuities found at the Bank.

Getting There

EDIT: The current "approved" approach is to park at the Bank Campground parking area, then follow the Cactus cliff trail down into the drainage for The Bank, up the other side, east along the base of the Bank to reach the old Cactus cliff access road, then up the road, along the base of The Vault to the pit toilet below the Cash Wall, then east again to reach the far left end of Cactus Cliff. Then follow the Cactus Cliff cliff-base trail along the entire length of Cactus, then to Spiney Ridge, along the entire legth of Spiney, around the point, then north past "The New Gym", to eventually reach The Gym. Sounds like a pretty long approach, huh? Basically its ~15 minutes further than Cactus, depending on your specific destination.

The upside is that there will be zero crowds once you finally arrive.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Arrowhead Spire
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
Mountaineer's Route
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Dizzi Lizzi
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 32
Up Valley Goes Downtown
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
Black Mamba Arete
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 82
Urban Fringe
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 10
Oh... What Are You Looking At
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 77
Shorty Bob
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 106
Pulley Mammoth
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 52
Natty Dread
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
The New Vernacular
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 254
Ga-stoned Again
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 185
The Raw and the Roasted
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 84
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 36
Cask Strength
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 39
Tomato, Tomotto
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 49
St. Patty's Slab
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Blast from the Past
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Rally Monkey
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Stud with a Rug
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 55
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots!
Trad, Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 10
Three Stooges
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
New Rule
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 2
Untapped
Sport
V1-2 5
 1
Free Willie
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Farewell Transmission
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Crimp And Punishment
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 9
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Senor Verde
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
S&M Crack
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Bolt the Planet
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Prickly Pear
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 2
Librium Quiver
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Penitentiary Pump
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 6
Rio Station
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Butt Flambé
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 1
Here Today Gone Tomorrow
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 36
There Goes the Neighborhood
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Paradise Regained
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Fly Little Super Boy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
The Real Deal
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Lockdown
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 45
The Smoking Pickle
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 38
Spontaneous Combustion
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Thunder & Lightning
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 25
Trailer Park Logic
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
I Am A Machine
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 19
Pinhead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 2
Scarface
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
VHS or Beta
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 80
The Ejection Seat
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 26
Ejection Generation
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 27
My Generation
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Bottom Feeder
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 85
Crystal
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
The Great Escape
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 71
Morning Stretch
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example S…
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 27
The Example
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
Gym Arete Direct
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 104
The Gym Arete
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 186
The Crack of Dawn
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 45
Head Cheese
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 53
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in…
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 44
Arnold! Arnold!
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 14
Solar Flex
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Five Dollars
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 3
I'll Be Back
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Hot Rod Lincoln
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Comin' In Smooth
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 21
Cimmaron Lanes
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Orange Marmalade
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 24
Jane Fonda Warm-up
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Happy Hinzi
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 2
Muscles From Brussels
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
The Armstrong Express
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 18
Deeper Shade Of Soul
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
Profits of Rage
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
The Green Bonus
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Bone 'n' Vein
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Arrowhead Spire
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mountaineer's Route
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Dizzi Lizzi
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Up Valley Goes Downtown
 32
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Black Mamba Arete
 36
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Urban Fringe
 82
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Oh... What Are You Looking At
 10
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Shorty Bob
 77
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pulley Mammoth
 106
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Natty Dread
 52
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The New Vernacular
 27
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ga-stoned Again
 254
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Raw and the Roasted
 185
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine
 84
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cask Strength
 36
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tomato, Tomotto
 39
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
St. Patty's Slab
 49
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Blast from the Past
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Rally Monkey
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Stud with a Rug
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
She's Got a Full Set of Cam…
 55
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Three Stooges
 10
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
New Rule
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Untapped
 2
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Free Willie
 1
V1-2 5 Boulder
Farewell Transmission
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Crimp And Punishment
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Our Bosch of Immaculate Con…
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport
Senor Verde
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
S&M Crack
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Bolt the Planet
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Prickly Pear
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Librium Quiver
 2
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Penitentiary Pump
 3
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Rio Station
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Sport
Butt Flambé
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Here Today Gone Tomorrow
 1
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
There Goes the Neighborhood
 36
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Paradise Regained
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Fly Little Super Boy
 6
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Real Deal
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lockdown
 12
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Smoking Pickle
 45
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Spontaneous Combustion
 38
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Thunder & Lightning
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Trailer Park Logic
 25
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn'…
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
I Am A Machine
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pinhead
 19
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Scarface
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Sport
VHS or Beta
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Ejection Seat
 80
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ejection Generation
 26
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
My Generation
 27
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Bottom Feeder
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Crystal
 85
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Great Escape
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Morning Stretch
 71
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bubba's Belly (aka The Exam…
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Example
 27
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Gym Arete Direct
 32
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Gym Arete
 104
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Crack of Dawn
 186
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Head Cheese
 45
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishi…
 53
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Arnold! Arnold!
 44
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Solar Flex
 14
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Five Dollars
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
I'll Be Back
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Hot Rod Lincoln
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Comin' In Smooth
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cimmaron Lanes
 21
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Orange Marmalade
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jane Fonda Warm-up
 24
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Happy Hinzi
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Muscles From Brussels
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
The Armstrong Express
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Needle Haven aka Fallen Pro…
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Deeper Shade Of Soul
 18
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Profits of Rage
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
The Green Bonus
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Bone 'n' Vein
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Gym features the best limestone at Shelf, abundant sunshine, big views, and no crowds.<br>
<br>
Photo © Ryan Day Thompson, 2012 | www.ryandaythompson.com.
[Hide Photo] The Gym features the best limestone at Shelf, abundant sunshine, big views, and no crowds. Photo © Ryan Day Thompson, 2012 | www.ryandaythompson.com.
Looking north from the left side of the Gym with a climber on Cask Strength.
[Hide Photo] Looking north from the left side of the Gym with a climber on Cask Strength.
Justin getting a lap before the storm.
[Hide Photo] Justin getting a lap before the storm.
Bob Robinson making it happen!
[Hide Photo] Bob Robinson making it happen!
just around corner from spiny ridge
[Hide Photo] just around corner from spiny ridge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] There is a route that is located a few routes right of Gastoned. The first 2 bolts are homemade. It's pockety, very positive and extremely dirty. I knocked a huge block down from the left of this route this weekend. No one was hurt. I barely touched it and POW!!! The mid point of the route is pretty clean. Up by the anchors it gets dirty again. Anyone have any idea what this route is and what it is rated? Felt like a 9 maybe? My partner quessed 10a?? Feb 27, 2008
[Hide Comment] A note of history that I haven't seen anywhere... the first route put up at The Gym was "VHS or Beta". I chose it because of the high quality stone. Due to the thin holds and less traveled location, it doesn't see much traffic, but it certainly typifies the style of climbing that was predominant in those early days of Shelf. Dec 1, 2010