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Arch Rock

Colorado > S Platte > Elevenmile Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021 DetailsDrop down

Description

Arch Rock is one of the more prominent rocks in Elevinmile Canyon, 4 miles up the road. A short approach will lead you to a slurry of fine moderate sport and trad climbs. The "sport" routes are typical of South Platte climbing, often mixed sport and trad, and hosting long runouts on easier terrain. Descent: The Routes can be descended from the top by heading to the SOUTH side of the rock and going down easier gullys and slopes past the dome. Expect morning shade, and afternoon sun.

Many classics abound including, the two pitch 5.5 trad adventure: "The Staircase."

Getting There

This fine rock is 4 miles up the canyon and is easy to identify. Look for a dome with a series of unique grooves towards the north end. There are several turnoffs to park at below the crag.

Per cyclestupor: Arch rock is the huge unmistakable dome 3.8 miles from the pay station. It is directly north (downstream) of the foot bridge parking area on the east side of the road. so if you see the footbridge or if you go through a tunnel you went too far. There is parking on the west side of the road behind the big boulder, or a small pull in on the east side of the road upstream of the boulder. Be prepared to scramble up hill.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
● Blerg
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
● Prow'd Monkey
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
● Greetings from Butchers Hill
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 2
● Sticks and Stones
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 29
● Smiley Face
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
● Fun-E Face
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
● Frown-E Face
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
● Duck Face
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● Slab n' Grab
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 243
● The Staircase
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 1
● Haircase
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 21
● Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
● Kansas Honey
Trad, TR 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 32
● Waiting on the Staircase aka Unk…
Sport, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 36
● Waiting for Staircase 1-3
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
 1
● Cake Walk
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 156
● Hollow Flake
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 28
● Persistence
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 63
● Zamboni Man
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
● Sprout Route
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
● Pride of Sweden
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
● Death by Drowning
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 64
● Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
● In Two Deep
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● Left Meanie Crack
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
● Middle Meanie Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
● Right Meanie Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 30
● Middle Dihedral
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 16
● Arch Rock Direct
Trad, Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 6
● Obscura
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
● Village Idiot
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 16
● Zendance
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 7
● Obscura Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
● Arch Rock Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
● Blackjack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 1
● Zorro's Cave
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Blerg
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Prow'd Monkey
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Greetings from Butchers Hill
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Sticks and Stones
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
● Smiley Face
 29
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● Fun-E Face
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Frown-E Face
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
● Duck Face
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Slab n' Grab
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● The Staircase
 243
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
● Haircase
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
● Waiting on a Resolution aka…
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Sport
● Kansas Honey
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR 3 pitches
● Waiting on the Staircase ak…
 32
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
● Waiting for Staircase 1-3
 36
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
● Cake Walk
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X Trad
● Hollow Flake
 156
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Persistence
 28
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Zamboni Man
 63
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Sprout Route
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Pride of Sweden
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
● Death by Drowning
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
● Mighty Young Joe aka Captai…
 64
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● In Two Deep
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Left Meanie Crack
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Middle Meanie Crack
 27
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Right Meanie Crack
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Middle Dihedral
 30
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Arch Rock Direct
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Sport
● Obscura
 6
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Village Idiot
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Zendance
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport
● Obscura Direct
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad 2 pitches
● Arch Rock Route
 58
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● Blackjack
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● Zorro's Cave
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Arch Rock.
[Hide Photo] Arch Rock.
Arch Rock from the summit of Turret Dome
[Hide Photo] Arch Rock from the summit of Turret Dome
The Stairway, Waiting for the Stairway, and Arch Rock Direct.
[Hide Photo] The Stairway, Waiting for the Stairway, and Arch Rock Direct.
Hiking back to the picnic area from Turret Dome. Nice shot of Arch Rock.
[Hide Photo] Hiking back to the picnic area from Turret Dome. Nice shot of Arch Rock.
The top of The Staircase.
[Hide Photo] The top of The Staircase.
One of the Best Rocks in the Canyon (stays a little cooler than the other domes in the hot summer sun)
[Hide Photo] One of the Best Rocks in the Canyon (stays a little cooler than the other domes in the hot summer sun)
Labor Day, 2001: Arch rock has a great mix of sport and trad, along with all the other rocks at Elevenmile Canyon. Moderate crowds, even during the holiday weekend.
[Hide Photo] Labor Day, 2001: Arch rock has a great mix of sport and trad, along with all the other rocks at Elevenmile Canyon. Moderate crowds, even during the holiday weekend.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Arch is one of the best pieces of solid granite I've climbed on. Gentle breezes help you cool off, river noise can interfere with long leads, so take care! Sep 6, 2002
Jim McGuire
[Hide Comment] Considering ease of approach/descent, quality of rock and abundance of moderate routes, Arch Rock is hard to beat. Sep 17, 2003
Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Fine easy to moderate routes but the rock is way too crowded - four(!) climbing parties on a weekday is a bit too much for a crag of this size. Jun 29, 2004
Larry Shaw
[Hide Comment] I'm posting this here because there isn't a section for spray rock. Does anyone have route information on the 4 or 5 slab routes just downstream from spray rock? Jul 28, 2005
Todd Miller
[Hide Comment] I think Shmausser put those up. I saw him climbing there with his wife a few weeks ago. He is working on a web based guide that should be out this summer.

His email is bisch40@msn.com. Jul 31, 2005
Larry C. Schubarth
colorado springs, colorado
[Hide Comment] I see a lot of "first ascents" being bagged/claimed on Arch Rock these days. Remember that the climbing that went on there in the seventies was CLEAN, meaning, i.e.,natural or nuts, hexes, knotted slings often times long runouts etc. and often without chalk, the only evidence that another party had been there before was the lack of loose flakes or vegetation having been cleaned out.Yes, there were climbers back then. Nov 14, 2005
Lordsokol
Cannon Beach, OR
[Hide Comment] Back in 1997 I climbed in this area. I lead up Captain Fist and then top ropped Death by Drowning's first pitch. While playing around on the top ropped route I had a near death experience. I climbed the route and stood at the belay stance ready to come down. The person I allowed to belay me on top rope was a guy I had met that day as there was a large group of us on the rocks all being "buddy buddy". I had just watched him competently belay his son so had some confidence in him as a belayer. Though I didn't pay much attention to that. When I reached the top he asked if I was going to rappel or if he should lower me. I said "you can lower me". He responded, "OK, I have you".
I called out, "Loading rope! I'm coming down!". Again his replay, "I've got you!". AS I sat back in my harness, I realized there was no resistance on the rope. My first thought was, "geeze this is a fast belay" but that thought was soon replaced by "falling!". I grounded from sixty feet up. My "belayer" never had me. He was wearing belay gloves and never felt the rope slip through his hands once I loaded the system. I am alive and climbing today because there was a search and rescue team at Arch Rock that day practicing and they were on the scene in seconds. I was loaded into a flight for life helicopter and rushed to the hospital. I have since returned to the area and lead the climb I was dropped on. Why share this story here? Just to serve as a reminder that you can't ever be too careful. Always make sure you know your belayer. This is a great sport but people die when careless mistakes are made. I am lucky and very grateful to be alive. Final lesson: Burn your belay gloves!!! Apr 24, 2006
Buff Johnson
[Hide Comment] Anyone ever tried the P2 for Kansas Honey? What/where the heck is pitch-2 of the route?? We contrived ourselves just to stay out of the crappy, lichen covered rock, & runout with rope drag, too. 5.9 natural line, my ass. Mar 7, 2008
Larry C. Schubarth
colorado springs, colorado
[Hide Comment] Don't let the ratings fool scare you off of routes listed here. Many of them were put up in the B.C. (Before Cams) and may now be much better protected and hopefully safer. Have fun! Apr 1, 2009