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Routes in Mt. Meeker

Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski Descent R
Flying Buttress, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Main Vein T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Elevation: 13,911 ft
GPS: 40.249, -105.604 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 24,299 total, 118/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Mount Meeker is Longs Peak's neighbor to the SE-the second highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park! Not nearly as well known as Longs, it yet houses a classic alpine rock route, the Flying Buttress, and a classic alpine ice route, the Dream Weaver Couloir. A number of other seldom-traveled routes exist which have an appealing look. The rock varies between granite and schist, excellent in both cases. All of the climbing is on the North Face, which is steep and quite wide. The 3rd-class route to the summit is a peak-bagging classic.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

The approach is easy: take the trail from the Longs Peak trailhead as for the east face of Longs (i.e. staying left at all the trail junctions). When just below Chasm Lake (east face of Longs visible directly west), near a ranger cabin and open-air privy, turn SE and scramble up talus and possibly snow to the base of the now obvious North Face. The North Face is partially visible for the last 2 miles of the approach.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Meeker

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
R
Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski Descent
Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Flying Buttress
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Main Vein
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski De… R Alpine
The Flying Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Main Vein 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
VirginiaS
Boulder, CO
VirginiaS   Boulder, CO
I think I left a pair of women's Mythos somewhere on the ledges before the approach slab to Flying Buttress on 6/29/17. If anyone finds them, please send me a message, or respond to this comment. I will be eternally grateful and will gladly provide cookies or beer to get them back! Jun 30, 2017
Jimmy Farrell
Lexington, KY
Jimmy Farrell   Lexington, KY
I climbed The Flying Buttress Direct on Tuesday, 7/19/05 (Great Climb!). On the 4th class approach right below the start of the climb, I found a climbing shoe. It was a right shoe, size 40.5, La Sportiva Miura. Let me know if you are missing it... (reachjim_at_hotmail) Jul 24, 2005
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Great Climb! We did the 10c start which was beautiful and tough. Use the excellent friction to your advantage.

The 5.9+ crack through the roof on the 3rd pitch that Charles mentions is great and probably doesn't need the "+". It looks improbable, but the holds through the roof are great and they continue above the lip. It was interesting getting my body horizontal under the roof while wearing a pack. The only point of caution here is that the block you haul on at the lip doesn't have any visible means of support, yet it felt solid. Oct 26, 2001

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