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The Monkey House

Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

The Monkey House is the leftward continuation of The Wall of The '90s. There are now 16 or so routes in this sector of the wall. Numbering begins with Psycho Hose Beast (1) which is immediately to the left of New Pollution and continues on uphill to Home Boy Bonanza (18) at the Death Rock. Routes vary in length from 50 - 60 feet to 85 feet, so for the most part a 60m rope will suffice for everything. The routes face West to North, get good evening sun, and a bit of shade higher up the hill. Overall, the rock quality is superb and worth the five minutes of added hike from The Wall of The '90s.

Getting There

The Monkey House is immediately West of Tunnel 2, 5.5 up Clear Creek Canyon on 6th Avenue. Parking for several cars is available on the South side of the highway, but this has been recently limited by CDOT. Trails to the base follow the obvious wash or the small ridge line at the parking area.

L->R:

Death Rock

A. Homeboy Bonanza, 12, 1p, bolts.
B. ?
C. The Sprawl, 12, 1p, bolts.

Monkey House

D1. Monkey Pause, 1p, 12-, 95', bolts.
D2. Monkey Shine, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.
E. Face Full of Bush, 1p, 80', bolts.
F. Monkey Bars, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. Monkey Business, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
H1? Unknown, 11- R, 1p, bolts, pin, & gear.
H2I. Monkey Puzzle, 10+, 1p, 45', bolts.
I. Unknown, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
J. Monkey See, Monkey Do, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. Fuzzy Monkey, 9, 1p, 65', bolts.
L. Schwing Salute, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
M. The Reward aka Convicted Felon, 1p, 60', bolts.
N. Soap on a Rope, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
O. Punishment for Shoplifting, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
P. Psycho Hose Beast, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
Q. New Pollution, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Monkey Shine
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 98
Face Full of Bush
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
Monkey Bars
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Monkey Business
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
Monkey Puzzle
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 43
Monkey Pause
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 24
Monkey See, Monkey Do
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Fuzzy Monkey
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 150
Schwing Salute
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 135
The Reward aka Convicted Felon
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 41
Soap on a Rope
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 107
Punishment For Shoplifting
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 37
Psycho Hose Beast
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
The New Pollution
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Monkey Shine
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Face Full of Bush
 98
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Monkey Bars
 36
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Monkey Business
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Monkey Puzzle
 14
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Monkey Pause
 43
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Monkey See, Monkey Do
 24
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Fuzzy Monkey
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Schwing Salute
 150
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Reward aka Convicted Felon
 135
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Soap on a Rope
 41
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Punishment For Shoplifting
 107
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Psycho Hose Beast
 37
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The New Pollution
 15
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

One fine day.
[Hide Photo] One fine day.
The Monkey House.
[Hide Photo] The Monkey House.
A moment in time.
[Hide Photo] A moment in time.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Has anyone been on or done the route that is listed as a 5.12? project up at the Monkey House that is between the 11c and 10d? Has this had a free ascent (I assume it has)? What is the grade guess? Sweet line that is much harder than it looks. Jul 21, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] Anonymous... I have toproped the 5.12 line you speak of at the Monkey House. I think it is 5.12b. Near the end is some very difficult steep slab moves with some long reaches for not so positive crimps. I sandbagged my partner into leading it a while ago because I wanted to climb it... "hey, man, its only 12a, I think, give it a go, bolts are close!..." Jul 23, 2004
John Kelley
Sedona, AZ
[Hide Comment] Found a pair of shoes on 7/31/04 e-mail and I'll send them to you. Aug 1, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] What's the story with the first bolt missing on The Sprawl (on Death Rock)? Dec 6, 2005
desbien
seattle,wa
[Hide Comment] NE1 know if this area stays clear of snow etc. during the winter? Feb 11, 2008
M Lindfors
Highlands Ranch
[Hide Comment] The unknown 12 is kind of runout and not fun for tiny (5 foot) people. The top runout is especially bad for short people. My son got on this thinking it was Monkey See and had a really hard time. May 17, 2010