Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Watchtower

Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vrain Ca…
Warning Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays DetailsDrop down

Description

The Watchtower is a large imposing tooth-like formation with North-West exposure. As of the present, April 2001, this formation appears to be closed to climbing having been purchased by a private party a year ago. The Watchtower does hold a few routes including an excellent 2 pitch sport route called Highway Robbery (5.12b). The rock is overall very good, although not the cleanest in the canyon. Climbing on the large North face is largely on fine sharp edges, while the trad corner contains a decent crack system.

Getting There

From the intersection in Lyons, head up the SSV canyon along highway 7 for 10.4 miles. The Watchtower is across the river, and a private bridge can (in principle) take you across. The approach is trivial, and parking is near by. Presently, it is advisable to get permission from the land owner to climb here.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 4
Business Loop
Sport 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Highway Robbery
Sport 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 6
The Watchtower Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 2
West Face AKA Cold Feelings
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Business Loop
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport 3 pitches
Highway Robbery
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches
The Watchtower Corner
 6
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
West Face AKA Cold Feelings
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Boulder County Assessor map showing The Watchtower is owned by the county.<br>
[Hide Photo] Boulder County Assessor map showing The Watchtower is owned by the county.
Google Map showing The Watchtower in relationship to the Boulder County Assessor map.
[Hide Photo] Google Map showing The Watchtower in relationship to the Boulder County Assessor map.
The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
[Hide Photo] The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

goatboy
Nederland, CO
[Hide Comment] The Watchtower is on Boulder County land, access is via fallen tree downstream from the tower. See beta pics above. Aug 18, 2009
[Hide Comment] Well done, goatboy - thanks for the effort.
The northern triangle of land (between tower and river), is privately owned. However, the bridge is public, as are the parking areas just adjacent to it. Crossing the river or the bridge (basically anywhere directly west of the formation) should be fully legal. Feb 4, 2010
[Hide Comment] This tower watches the Middle St. Vrain flow by. Apr 25, 2018